Results for "vintage rv"

Finally facing the inevitable with my 1994 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye garage doors that are 30 years old and completely delaminating at the seams — repair or replace? The extruded aluminum frame corners that are supposed to be screwed together are failing because the screws keep breaking under stress. What started as minor separation has now progressed to the point where the structural integrity of the entire door system is compromised.

I've noticed that not only are the corner joints failing, but the door panels themselves seem to be separating from their backing material, and the weather seals around the perimeter are starting to pull away as well. The doors don't close properly anymore, leaving gaps that let in water and debris. I'm concerned about further damage to the garage area and contents if I don't address this comprehensively.

I need a complete repair approach that addresses the delamination issue, reinforces the structural components, and replaces the failing seals. Simply adding corner braces feels like a band-aid solution, and I'm worried about drilling out the broken screws without causing more damage to the aluminum frame. What's the proper way to tackle this type of comprehensive garage door repair on an older RV? …more

About to give up on Max's Vinyl Decal Restorer after treating my faded RV graphics yesterday — they still look dull and lifeless, did I mess something up? You know the drill - see something on social media, think "this is THE ONE," order it with way too much hope, and usually end up disappointed.

Well, I just tried Max's Vinyl Decal Restorer after seeing it recommended online. I prepped the graphics with Soft Scrub and a big sponge (nothing too harsh), then applied a few coats of Max's. The results aren't "like new" but definitely a great improvement over the sad, sun-beaten decals I started with.

Here's the real test though - after application, my RV survived a week of solid rain, then a week of camping, followed by a full soapy wash. And the graphics STILL look good! Has anyone else tried this stuff? Am I getting my hopes up for nothing, or did I actually stumble onto something that works? …more

This Saturday I'm hitting up used motorhome dealers across Texas — what should I prep to avoid getting burned by sketchy salespeople? There's gotta be some solid places around here that actually care about their reputation, right?

I'm open to checking out dealers in neighboring states like Arizona, Oklahoma, or Louisiana too if they're worth the drive. Just need to know how to separate the good ones from the fly-by-night operations. What's the best way to research dealers and make sure I'm not walking into a disaster? Any specific resources or red flags I should know about before I start shopping? …more

Wondering if anyone's dealt with fading paint, oxidation streaks, AND chalky residue covering their entire RV exterior before trusting Carlos at Reef RV Park? I have a 2004 Winnebago Adventurer and need the storage compartment doors painted on the driver's side (about 2'x28' section). I also have clear coat peeling on my front and rear caps. The quotes I'm getting in the US are absolutely crushing - $5,500 to $6,500 just for the doors!

I've heard about Carlos at The Reef RV Park in Puerto Penasco (WhatsApp: +52-638-105-6894) who does paint work for way less. His initial quote was $1,400, which expanded to $2,500 for additional work including painting front/rear caps and fixing a slideout lip.

Communication can be tricky - it took multiple attempts to connect with him. Reserving at The Reef RV Park was also challenging (pro tip: use Gmail for reservations).

Has anyone actually taken the risk and gotten work done here? I completed the work and was surprisingly pleased. Carlos worked in a basic metal shop with a dirt floor, yet produced impressive, nearly flawless results. While there was a barely noticeable small paint sag, the overall quality exceeded my expectations.

Is this a viable option for RV paint work? In my experience, absolutely yes. …more

I noticed my 2005 Gulfstream Crescendo's slide-out T-track bulb seal has deteriorated for the third time this season and I'm done replacing it blindly. The existing seal fits into a T-track configuration with specific dimensional requirements - the track opening is approximately 3/16" wide with the T-head measuring 3/8" at its widest point.

Standard automotive or hardware store seals don't appear to match these specifications. What's the proper methodology for sourcing replacement T-track bulb seals that will fit correctly? Also seeking guidance on preparation procedures to ensure proper installation and seal longevity. …more

Already standing in the RV service bay staring at a $1400 evaporator replacement quote for my 2002 Pace Arrow with Triton V10 with no clue if that's highway robbery or fair. Tech says evaporator, dryer, and expansion valve all need replacing. Quoted $1400 for parts and labor, says it's an 8-hour job because of dash removal.

Is this price reasonable for this type of repair? What should I expect to pay for parts vs labor on a dash-intensive AC job like this? …more

Wondering if my extended warranty would cover spark plug replacement on our 2003 Ford 6.8 V10 at 30,000 miles before I start tearing into this job myself? We purchased this RV used at 25,000 miles, and I'm confident it still has the original factory spark plugs installed. I know these engines are notorious for spark plugs getting stuck in the cylinder heads if you wait too long to change them, but I'm trying to figure out the optimal timing.

I have experience with a similar situation on my 2006 4.6 V8 Ford engine - when I had the plugs changed around 25,000 miles, two of them broke off during removal and required special extraction tools at the dealership. That experience has me concerned about whether 30K miles is already too late for the V10, or if waiting longer would actually make the stuck plug problem worse.

What's the best approach for timing this maintenance on the 6.8 V10? Should I tackle this now at 30K miles, or is there a benefit to waiting longer? I'm also wondering about proper removal techniques and precautions to minimize the risk of broken plugs during the change. …more

Despite getting my tools ready and being determined to tackle this steering shimmy hitting my 1997 Class A motorhome at 55 mph — where should I start? Based on my troubleshooting, this appears to be a wheel balance issue, though I suspect there could also be tire wear patterns or front end component problems contributing to the vibration.

I need to locate commercial truck tire facilities in the Columbus, Ohio area that can properly handle motorhome wheel balancing services. Standard automotive shops don't have the equipment for larger RV wheels, so I'm specifically looking for commercial-grade tire service centers that can diagnose whether this is purely a balance issue or if there are additional front end problems requiring attention. …more

Despite eight years of faithful service, our 40-foot destination trailer is starting to feel cramped — time to upgrade to a Monaco Diplomat motorhome or keep making do? We've found a 2008 Monaco Diplomat 40SKQ that's caught our attention - it has 66,000 miles and appears to have been well cared for by the current owners. They've shown us receipts for major maintenance items completed in the past couple of years, including some engine work and chassis updates. Coming from the towable world, we're not sure what specific things to look for when evaluating a Class A purchase. What should we focus on during our inspection, and are there any known issues with this particular Monaco model and year that we should be aware of? …more