My 2002 Pace Arrow with Triton V10 needs AC work. Tech says evaporator, dryer, and expansion valve all need replacing. Quoted $1400 for parts and labor, says it's an 8-hour job because of dash removal.
Is this price reasonable for this type of repair? What should I expect to pay for parts vs labor on a dash-intensive AC job like this?
$1400 for Triton V10 AC evaporator, dryer, and expansion valve is a fair price. Parts are $300-500, and 8 hours labor at shop rates is accurate for this dash-intensive repair.
For your 2002 Pace Arrow with the Triton V10, that $1400 quote for replacing the evaporator, dryer, and expansion valve is actually quite reasonable for a professional job. The 8-hour labor estimate is realistic too - evaporator replacement in Class A motorhomes is one of the most labor-intensive A/C repairs because it typically requires removing the entire dash assembly to access the evaporator core behind it. When A/C systems lose cooling completely like yours has, it's often due to evaporator leaks, which contaminate the system and require replacing multiple components simultaneously to prevent immediate failure.
The fact that your tech recommended replacing all three components together tells me they likely found refrigerant leaks in the evaporator and want to do a complete system restoration. This is the right approach - replacing just the evaporator while leaving a potentially clogged dryer or faulty expansion valve would likely lead to premature failure of your new parts. For a 21-year-old RV, this kind of comprehensive repair makes financial sense compared to repeated smaller fixes.
Your Pace Arrow's A/C system failure is typical for RVs of this vintage. The evaporator core, located behind your dashboard, develops pinhole leaks over time due to road vibration, temperature cycling, and corrosion from moisture. When refrigerant leaks out, the system can't maintain proper pressure and cooling stops completely. The constant vibration that RVs experience while traveling is much harder on A/C components than what residential units endure.
Once the evaporator starts leaking, contamination spreads throughout the system. Moisture enters through the leak points, creating acids that damage other components. The receiver/dryer becomes saturated and can no longer remove moisture effectively, while debris from the failing evaporator can clog the expansion valve. This is why experienced techs replace all three components together - they've learned that piecemeal repairs on compromised systems usually fail within months.
The Triton V10 era Pace Arrows also have a specific issue where the evaporator drain pan can crack, allowing condensation to drip onto electrical components under the dash. If your tech mentioned this during inspection, factor in drain pan replacement to prevent future electrical problems. The vibration from the V10 engine, while reliable, does transmit more movement to the dash area than smaller engines.
Before committing to this repair, verify that your tech properly diagnosed the evaporator leak using UV dye or electronic leak detection - not just low refrigerant levels. Ask to see the leak points if possible. A reputable shop should be able to show you fluorescent dye traces or explain exactly where they found the leak. Also confirm they're planning to replace the receiver/dryer with the correct capacity unit for your system, typically a 4-6 oz capacity for most Class A chassis A/C systems.
Get a detailed written estimate breaking down parts and labor costs. Expect the evaporator core to cost $200-300, the receiver/dryer around $75-100, and the expansion valve $50-75. Labor should be the biggest expense at $600-800 for the 8-hour job. Quality shops will also include system evacuation, leak testing, and proper refrigerant charging in their quote. Make sure they're using R-134a refrigerant, which your 2002 system requires.
Ask about warranty coverage - reputable shops typically offer 1-2 years on A/C system repairs this comprehensive. Also inquire about upgrading to a higher-efficiency evaporator core if available, as some aftermarket units offer better cooling performance than original equipment. Finally, schedule this work for cooler weather if possible, as you'll be without dash A/C during the repair period.
This repair requires complete dashboard removal to access the evaporator housing. The tech will start by recovering any remaining refrigerant from your system, then disconnect the refrigerant lines at the firewall. Next comes the tedious process of removing the entire instrument panel assembly - disconnecting dozens of electrical connectors, removing the steering column, and carefully extracting the dash without damaging the wiring harnesses or trim pieces.
Once the dash is out, the evaporator housing becomes accessible. The old evaporator core slides out after removing the housing cover and disconnecting the temperature sensing bulb. The new evaporator installs in reverse, along with the new expansion valve that typically mounts directly to the evaporator inlet. The receiver/dryer replacement happens under the hood, usually mounted near the condenser where refrigerant lines are easily accessible.
After reassembly, the critical steps begin - system evacuation to remove all moisture and air, followed by leak testing at operating pressures. The tech should evacuate the system for the time specified by manufacturer procedures (typically 45-60 minutes minimum) to ensure complete moisture removal, then charge with the exact amount of R-134a specified for your system (see manufacturer specifications for exact capacity). Final testing includes checking pressures, temperatures, and airflow to verify proper operation before reassembling interior panels.
The most time-consuming part is careful reassembly of all those electrical connections and ensuring every dash component functions properly. Experienced RV techs know to test everything - lights, gauges, radio, climate controls - before calling the job complete, as it's easy to miss a connector during reassembly.
This repair is definitely beyond typical DIY capabilities, and attempting it yourself could easily cost more than the professional repair if things go wrong. Dashboard removal in Class A motorhomes requires specialized knowledge of electrical systems, proper evacuation equipment, and refrigerant handling certification. The risk of damaging expensive electronic modules during disassembly is high, and improper refrigerant handling can result in costly EPA violations.
However, you can save money by getting quotes from multiple shops. RV-specific repair facilities often charge 20-30% less than general automotive A/C shops because they're more familiar with the job requirements. Mobile RV repair services are another option - while they might charge slightly more per hour, you save on towing costs and downtime. Some mobile techs specialize in A/C work and carry all necessary equipment.
If $1400 strains your budget, consider asking about payment plans or whether the shop offers used evaporator cores. Some specialty RV salvage yards sell tested evaporator cores from low-mileage units at significant savings. You could also ask if the repair can be staged - doing the evaporator and expansion valve first, then adding the receiver/dryer later if budget allows, though this approach risks contaminating the new evaporator.
Given your Pace Arrow's age and the comprehensive nature of this repair, getting it done professionally now should give you many more years of reliable A/C operation. The alternative - repeated smaller fixes as components fail individually - typically costs more in the long run and leaves you with unreliable cooling when you need it most.
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