I'm dealing with a serious issue on my 1994 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye where the garage doors are completely delaminating and coming apart at the seams. The extruded aluminum frame corners that are supposed to be screwed together are failing because the screws keep breaking under stress. What started as minor separation has now progressed to the point where the structural integrity of the entire door system is compromised.
I've noticed that not only are the corner joints failing, but the door panels themselves seem to be separating from their backing material, and the weather seals around the perimeter are starting to pull away as well. The doors don't close properly anymore, leaving gaps that let in water and debris. I'm concerned about further damage to the garage area and contents if I don't address this comprehensively.
I need a complete repair approach that addresses the delamination issue, reinforces the structural components, and replaces the failing seals. Simply adding corner braces feels like a band-aid solution, and I'm worried about drilling out the broken screws without causing more damage to the aluminum frame. What's the proper way to tackle this type of comprehensive garage door repair on an older RV?
Repair RV garage doors that are delaminating or coming apart. Covers adhesive reattachment, reinforcement, and seal replacement.
Your idea about adding flat corner braces is actually spot-on for your 1994 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye garage door issue. Rather than trying to drill out those broken screws in the extruded aluminum frame (which could definitely cause damage as you suspected), external corner braces will provide even stronger reinforcement than the original corner joints. You can install aluminum angle brackets or flat corner plates using new screws into undamaged areas of the frame, effectively bypassing the failed original connection points while creating a more robust repair that should last longer than the original design.
The corner screws on your Jamboree Rallye's garage doors are failing due to several factors common to RVs of this vintage. The constant vibration from road travel creates a cycling stress on these joints, gradually loosening the screws over nearly 30 years of use. The aluminum extrusion material, while lightweight, can develop stress fractures around screw holes, especially when subjected to the repeated opening and closing cycles combined with road vibration.
Additionally, these garage doors experience significant wind loading while traveling, which puts lateral stress on the corner joints that they weren't originally designed to handle long-term. The original factory assembly likely used standard self-tapping screws, which work fine initially but can strip out the aluminum over time, especially if the doors have been adjusted or removed for maintenance over the years.
Before beginning your repair, gather the necessary materials: aluminum angle brackets (1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" thick work well), or flat corner plates if space is tight, along with appropriate aluminum screws. You'll want #10 or #12 self-tapping screws that are long enough to bite into solid aluminum but won't protrude through the back side of your door frame.
Carefully assess which corners are affected and take photos before disassembly. Support the door properly during the repair - garage doors can be heavier than they appear and the aluminum frame can bend if not properly supported. Have a helper available, and consider removing the door completely if multiple corners need attention. Clean the area around each damaged corner thoroughly to ensure good contact for your reinforcement brackets.
Start by positioning your corner braces on the outside of the frame where they won't interfere with the door's operation or weatherstripping. Mark your screw locations carefully, ensuring they'll go into solid aluminum and avoiding the areas where the original screws failed. Use a center punch to prevent drill bit wandering, then drill pilot holes according to manufacturer specifications (typically 75-85% of the screw's root diameter for self-tapping screws in aluminum).
Install the corner braces using quality stainless steel or aluminum screws with washers to distribute the load. Tighten them snugly but don't overtighten, as aluminum can strip easily. For the interior corners, you might need to use flat plates instead of angle brackets depending on clearance with the door mechanism.
If any corners are completely loose, you may need to temporarily clamp or tape them in proper alignment while installing the reinforcement brackets. Apply a small amount of silicone sealant behind each bracket to prevent water intrusion and provide additional bonding strength. After installation, test the door operation carefully to ensure the braces don't interfere with opening, closing, or latching.
Consider adding corner braces to all four corners even if only some have failed, as this will prevent future failures and create a much stronger door assembly overall. The small additional cost in materials will save you from having to do this repair again in a few years.
You should be able to handle this repair yourself with basic tools, but consider professional help if you discover the aluminum extrusion itself is cracked or severely damaged beyond just stripped screw holes. If the door frame is warped or twisted, a professional RV service center can help determine if the door is salvageable or needs replacement.
Also seek professional assistance if you're uncomfortable working with the door mechanism or if the garage door hardware itself needs adjustment after your corner repairs. Some RV service centers specialize in older Fleetwood units and may have experience with this exact issue on Jamboree Rallye models, potentially offering insights into upgraded hardware or techniques specific to your RV's design.
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