Results for "thermocouple"

Three different RV shops quoted me $400+ to fix my Suburban water heater's pilot light that won't stay lit and I'm wondering if I can tackle this thermocouple issue myself. the pilot lights up just fine, but the second I let go of that button it dies. I can hold it down for like a minute and think I've got it, but nope - releases and it's gone.

I'm wondering if this is one of those thermocouple things I keep hearing about? Like, is that the little sensor thingy that's supposed to keep the gas flowing when there's a flame? Pretty sure that's what's acting up but want to make sure before I start messing with it. …more

Called my buddy at midnight when my Norcold RV refrigerator quit staying lit on propane — need to figure this out before our food spoils by morning. and by dream, I mean my Norcold refrigerator has decided it's too good for propane! The thing fires up just fine on LP gas - I can hear it purring away like a happy cat. But then, like a fair-weather friend, it abandons me after an hour or two and shuts itself off.

I'm starting to feel personally rejected by my own appliances. The electric mode works perfectly fine, but when I'm boondocking, my generator and I aren't exactly best friends either. I've heard this could be a thermocouple issue, burner problems, or maybe the control board throwing a tantrum. How do I figure out which component is giving me the cold shoulder (pun intended)? Any diagnostic tips to help me troubleshoot this temperamental beast? …more

Apparently everyone has a different theory about my Norcold N842IM's 'No CO' error—my neighbor swears the propane tank's empty, the RV dealer blames the thermocouple, and YouTube insists it's just dirty burners. The fridge works absolutely perfectly when we're plugged into shore power and running on AC - no problems whatsoever with cooling performance or any error codes.

The real problem starts when we disconnect from shore power and head out on the road. The refrigerator switches over to propane mode without any issues initially, and everything seems to be working normally for the first several hours. However, after approximately 8-9 hours of running on propane, I consistently get an alarm and a 'no CO' error code displayed. I've been turning the refrigerator off for about an hour (though I'm not sure if that's the right amount of time), and when I restart it, it runs fine for another 8-9 hour cycle before the same error occurs again.

I'm wondering what could be causing this specific 'no CO' error to appear after this consistent timeframe when running on propane. Is this related to combustion problems, ventilation issues, or something with the propane system components? I'd really appreciate some guidance on what I should be checking and how to properly troubleshoot this recurring problem. …more

This Suburban SW6D water heater pilot light keeps going out every single time I try to fire it up. The flame keeps going out after lighting, but only when the access door is closed. When I leave the door open, it stays lit just fine.

This seems like it could be dangerous - I don't want to cause a gas leak or explosion by trying random fixes. Is this likely a combustion air problem or some kind of safety switch issue? I'm hesitant to start taking things apart without knowing what I'm dealing with, but I also don't want to keep running it with the door open if that's unsafe too. …more

Spent three hours yesterday trying to figure out if my 2001 truck camper's Dometic RM2453 uses DSI or pilot light ignition and I'm still completely lost. I've been trying to light what I thought was a pilot light, but I'm having issues with it staying lit and producing adequate heat for cooling. The flame seems very low and blows out easily, even though my thermocouple is reading over 20mv which should be sufficient.

After doing some research, I'm now questioning whether this model even uses a traditional pilot light system. I notice there's no wire going to the gas valve for electronic activation, and the only control appears to be the eyebrow board on top. Some sources suggest these units use DSI (direct spark ignition) instead of a standing pilot.

Can someone clarify definitively whether the Dometic RM2453 uses a pilot light system or DSI ignition? Also, does this model have variable burner output stages, or is it just a single on/off operation? Understanding the correct ignition system will help me focus my troubleshooting efforts in the right direction rather than chasing a pilot light that may not even exist on this model. …more

Spent hours replacing the thermocouple, cleaning the burner assembly, checking gas connections — but my 2025 Jayco's Suburban SDN2U water heater still won't stay lit. I've heard this is a known problem on 2024-2025 models and that it might need a thermocouple position adjustment to match the working burner.

Before I attempt anything myself, I'm really concerned about making things worse or creating a safety hazard. Should the thermocouple tip be positioned in the outer flame cone like the working burner? I'm also worried about voiding my warranty on this new RV - would this type of adjustment be covered under warranty, and should I document the issue before trying any DIY fix?

I want to make sure I approach this safely and properly. Any guidance on whether this is something I can adjust myself or if I should insist on professional repair would be greatly appreciated. …more

Nobody can agree on what's wrong — my neighbor blames the thermocouple, the RV dealer says it's the burner assembly, YouTube claims gas pressure issues, yet my Dometic refrigerator works fine on shore power but won't cool on propane. However, when I switch to propane mode for boondocking, it's a completely different story.

The propane burner does ignite and I can see the flame burning, but the refrigerator simply will not cool down at all. It stays at ambient temperature no matter how long I leave it running on propane. I've checked and the propane tanks are full, and my other propane appliances (stove, water heater) work fine, so I know gas is getting to the unit. The cooling unit itself seems fine since it works great on electric.

I'm wondering if this could be related to the burner assembly, thermocouple, or something with the flue system? I'd really like to understand what the most common causes are for this type of issue where electric mode works but propane mode doesn't cool, and what troubleshooting steps I should take to diagnose and fix the problem. …more

Since getting my 2018 Forest River Cherokee, the main oven burner refuses to light even though the pilot works fine. Our RV oven has been rock solid for two years, but now the main burner absolutely refuses to light even though the pilot flame is burning perfectly fine. I've checked everything I can think of - propane tanks are full and wide open, all the stovetop burners work great, pilot stays lit consistently. I've tried every temperature setting on the dial, waited different amounts of time, even tried relighting the pilot multiple times.

This has to be some kind of component failure, right? The pilot flame looks strong and blue, but when I turn the oven on, the main burner just sits there doing nothing. What are the most common parts that fail in this scenario? I really hope it's something I can diagnose myself before calling a repair tech. Any guidance on what typically goes wrong when you have this exact symptom would be incredibly helpful! …more