RV Oven Main Burner Won't Light But Pilot Works - Quick Fix Guide

The Quick Answer

Since your pilot light stays lit and your range burners work fine, but your oven's main burner won't ignite despite having propane and fully open tanks, you're dealing with a blocked or misaligned thermocouple, a clogged main burner orifice, or debris blocking the gas flow between the pilot and main burner. The fact that you've tried different temperature settings with no change confirms this isn't a thermostat issue. Your pilot flame is likely either not positioned correctly to heat the thermocouple properly, or there's a blockage preventing the gas valve from opening to allow fuel to the main burner when the thermocouple signals it's safe to do so.

This is actually a fairly common issue in RV ovens after extended use, especially if the unit has been sitting unused for periods or exposed to dust and debris during travel. The good news is that since your pilot system is working and you have proper gas flow to other appliances, this is typically a straightforward repair that most RV owners can handle themselves with basic tools and about an hour of work.

What's Causing This

When an RV oven pilot stays lit but the main burner won't ignite, common causes include problems with the safety system that controls gas flow to the main burner. Your oven uses a thermocouple safety system where the pilot flame heats a small metal probe that generates a tiny electrical current. This current keeps the gas safety valve open, allowing fuel to flow to the main burner when you turn up the temperature.

The most common culprit is a thermocouple that's either dirty, corroded, or positioned incorrectly. Even though your pilot lights and stays lit, if the thermocouple isn't getting heated properly by the pilot flame, it won't generate enough electrical current to keep the main gas valve open. This can happen if the thermocouple has shifted position over time due to vibration during travel, or if carbon buildup from incomplete combustion has insulated it from the pilot flame's heat.

Another frequent cause is a clogged main burner orifice or gas delivery tube. While your range top burners work fine, the oven burner has its own dedicated gas line and orifice that can become blocked with spider webs, dust, grease, or other debris. RV ovens are particularly susceptible to this because they're often not used as frequently as stovetop burners, allowing contaminants to accumulate in the gas passages.

Less commonly, the issue could be with the gas control valve itself, where internal components have become sticky or corroded, preventing proper operation even when the thermocouple is functioning correctly. The temperature control knob and associated linkages can also cause problems if they've become disconnected or damaged, though you mentioned trying different temperatures with no success, which suggests these components are working properly.

Tools You'll Need

For this repair, you'll need a basic set of tools that most RV owners should have on hand. Start with a flashlight or headlamp for good visibility inside the oven compartment, as you'll be working in tight spaces with limited natural light. A set of adjustable wrenches or small combination wrenches will be essential for loosening and tightening the thermocouple connection and any gas line fittings you need to access.

You'll also want a can of compressed air or a small air compressor for blowing out debris from gas passages and burner ports. Fine steel wool or emery cloth will be useful for cleaning corrosion from the thermocouple tip, and a small brush or old toothbrush can help remove carbon deposits.

Keep some pipe thread compound or gas-rated thread sealant handy for reassembling any gas connections you need to disconnect. A multimeter capable of measuring millivolts can be helpful for testing thermocouple output, though this isn't absolutely necessary for the basic repair. Finally, have some soapy water in a spray bottle ready for checking gas connections for leaks after reassembly.

Step-by-Step Fix

SAFETY WARNING: Before beginning any work, shut off the propane supply at the tank and allow the oven to cool completely. Working on gas appliances carries serious risk of explosion or fire if proper precautions are not taken.

Begin by ensuring safety - turn off the propane supply at the tank and allow the oven to cool completely if it's been in use. Remove the oven racks and bottom panel to access the burner assembly. You'll typically find the pilot light assembly and thermocouple near the back of the oven compartment, with the main burner tube running across the bottom.

Start by examining the pilot flame and thermocouple positioning. The pilot should produce a steady blue flame about half an inch tall that completely envelops the tip of the thermocouple. If the flame is yellow, too small, or not touching the thermocouple properly, you'll need to clean the pilot orifice and adjust the positioning. Use compressed air to blow out the pilot orifice, and adjust the positioning by loosening the mounting hardware and repositioning the pilot tube or thermocouple bracket as needed to ensure proper flame contact - avoid bending these delicate components as this can cause damage or misalignment.

Next, clean the thermocouple itself. Disconnect it from the gas control valve by carefully unscrewing the connection nut with your wrench. The thermocouple tip should be shiny metal - if it's black with carbon buildup or green with corrosion, clean it carefully with fine steel wool until it's bright and clean. Be gentle, as thermocouples are relatively fragile. While you have it disconnected, you can test its output with a multimeter if available - it should generate 15-25 millivolts when heated by the pilot flame.

Now turn your attention to the main burner assembly. Look for the gas orifice that feeds the main burner - this is typically a small brass fitting with a tiny hole where gas enters the burner tube. For orifice cleaning, it's recommended to have this serviced professionally, as precision gas components can be easily damaged and affect safe operation. Also blow out the main burner tube with compressed air and check all the burner ports for blockages.

Check the gas control valve operation by examining the linkage between your temperature control knob and the valve itself. With the thermocouple reconnected and the pilot lit, try operating the temperature control while listening for the sound of gas flowing to the main burner. You should hear a distinct hissing sound when the valve opens. If you don't hear gas flow, the problem may be internal to the control valve, requiring replacement.

Reassemble everything in reverse order, ensuring all gas connections are tightened to manufacturer specifications and properly sealed. Use the soapy water solution to check for leaks at every connection point by spraying or brushing it onto all gas fittings and connections - bubbles indicate escaping gas that needs to be addressed. Turn on the gas supply gradually and recheck all connections before proceeding. Once everything is leak-free, test the system by following the manufacturer's pilot lighting procedure (typically holding the pilot button while lighting with a match or lighter), then allow the pilot to burn for 1-2 minutes before releasing the button. Next, gradually turn up the temperature control to the desired setting. The main burner should ignite within 30-60 seconds of opening the gas valve.

When to Call a Pro

While this repair is generally within the capabilities of most DIY RV owners, there are several situations where professional help is advisable. If you discover any damaged or corroded gas lines, fittings, or control valves during your inspection, don't attempt repairs yourself. Gas system work requires specialized knowledge and tools to ensure safe operation. requires proper tools, materials, and expertise to ensure safety. Similarly, if you detect the smell of gas at any point during the repair process, stop work immediately and consult a qualified RV technician.

Consider calling a professional if cleaning the thermocouple and burner components doesn't resolve the issue. Internal problems with the gas control valve, such as a failed electromagnet or damaged internal seals, require specialized knowledge and parts that are typically only available through authorized service centers.s that aren't readily available to consumers. These components often need to be calibrated properly after installation to ensure safe operation.

If you're uncomfortable working with gas appliances or lack confidence in your ability to properly test connections for leaks, it's worth the cost of professional service to ensure safety. A qualified RV technician will typically charge between $100-200 for this type of repair, including parts and labor. They'll also be able to perform a complete safety inspection of your entire propane system, which can provide peace of mind for extended RV travel.

Finally, if your RV oven is older than 10-15 years and you're experiencing multiple issues beyond just the main burner not lighting, it may be more economical to replace the entire unit rather than continuing to repair individual components. Modern RV ovens offer better efficiency, safety features, and reliability than older models, and a professional can help you evaluate whether repair or replacement makes more financial sense in your specific situation. Professional service is especially important for gas orifice work, as these precision components require specialized tools and expertise to clean or replace without compromising safety or performance.