Quick Answer
When your Dometic RV refrigerator cools on electric but not propane, the issue is typically a dirty burner, faulty thermocouple, blocked flue, or gas supply problem. Most issues can be resolved with cleaning and basic adjustments.
Tools & Parts Needed
Find these on Amazon: Digital Multimeter , Compressed Air Duster , Wire Brush Set , Propane Leak Detector
Recognizing the Signs
If you're experiencing this issue, you're not alone. Here's what's typically happening and how to address it.
What You Might Notice
When your Dometic RV refrigerator works fine on electric but won't cool on propane, the most common causes are a dirty or misaligned burner, faulty thermocouple, blocked flue, or gas supply issues.
Understanding the Problem
Dirty Burner Orifice: The small gas orifice can become clogged with debris, insects, or corrosion, reducing gas flow and flame quality. This is the most frequent cause of propane cooling problems.
Thermocouple Issues: The thermocouple must sense adequate heat to keep the safety gas valve open. If it's dirty, mispositioned, or failing, it will shut off gas flow even though the burner initially lights.
Blocked Flue: Poor ventilation prevents proper heat transfer and can cause the cooling unit to overheat and shut down. The flue must remain clear for optimal operation.
Gas Pressure Problems: Low propane tank levels, regulator issues, or kinked gas lines can reduce pressure below the minimum required for proper refrigerator operation.
What to Grab
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- Compressed air or shop vacuum
- Wire brush or steel wool
- Multimeter
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Safety gloves
- Propane leak detector spray
The Repair Process
- Check Gas Supply: Verify other propane appliances work normally. Ensure the propane tank valve is fully open and check for adequate gas pressure. Low tank levels can cause poor performance even if other appliances seem fine.
- Access the Burner Assembly: Turn off the refrigerator completely at the control panel, turn off the propane supply, and allow the burner to cool for at least 30 minutes. Remove the lower outside access panel on your RV's exterior. You'll see the burner assembly at the bottom of the cooling unit. Take a photo before disassembly for reference.
- Inspect the Burner and Orifice: Remove the burner assembly by unscrewing the gas line connection and mounting screws. Check the burner orifice for debris, spider webs, or corrosion. Clean with compressed air and a fine wire brush if needed.
- Examine the Thermocouple: The thermocouple should be positioned in the flame path. If it's bent away from the burner or covered in soot, it won't sense proper flame temperature. Clean with fine steel wool and reposition if necessary.
- Check the Flue: Look up the flue tube for obstructions like bird nests, leaves, or soot buildup. Use a flashlight to inspect thoroughly. Clear any debris with compressed air or a long flexible brush.
- Test Flame Quality: Reassemble and check all connections for gas leaks using leak detector spray before lighting the burner. The flame should be blue with minimal yellow tips. A weak, yellow, or unstable flame indicates problems with gas pressure, orifice size, or air mixture.
- Verify Thermocouple Operation: With the burner lit, the thermocouple should generate enough voltage (typically 20-30 millivolts) to keep the gas valve open. Use a multimeter to test if you have the proper connections.
Leave These to the Experts
Contact an RV service technician if you encounter:
- Persistent gas leaks at any connection
- Thermocouple or gas valve replacement needs
- Cooling unit problems requiring removal
- Electrical control board issues
- Any situation where you're uncomfortable working with propane systems
Professional diagnosis is also recommended if these steps don't resolve the cooling problem, as internal cooling unit failures require specialized repair or replacement.
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