Results for "hydraulic-systems"

Before spending hundreds on new tires and suspension parts for my 2023 Ford E-450 Class C motorhome, the ride quality is still absolutely brutal. The RV is about 28 feet long and weighs approximately 14,500 pounds loaded. We use it primarily for family camping trips, but I also occasionally tow a small utility trailer with dirt bikes - probably 25% of our trips involve towing that extra 2,000-3,000 pounds.

I've been researching shock absorber upgrades and have narrowed it down to two main options that seem popular in the RV community: the Bilstein 4600 series and the Koni FSD (Frequency Selective Damping) shocks. I understand both are significant improvements over stock, but I'm trying to understand the practical differences between them for my specific setup and usage patterns.

What I really need to know is which option provides the best balance of ride comfort improvement, handling stability (especially when towing), and overall value for money on the E-450 chassis. I want to make sure I'm making the right choice since this is a fairly significant investment and I don't want to have buyer's remorse later. …more

Hearing a loud cracking or popping noise from underneath my Dutchstar when going over bumps or turning. Sounds structural — like metal flexing or a weld breaking. Crawled under and couldn't see any obvious cracks but the noise is getting louder each trip. …more

Finally figured out why my neighbor's slideout glides like butter while mine scrapes horribly against the exterior wall every time — what's their secret? My slideout has started rubbing against the exterior bathroom wall, and the coach is perfectly level.

The main thing I've noticed is that the gap at the bottom of the slide is much smaller now compared to the top - it used to be about 1½-2 inches at the bottom, but now it's barely anything. There's also about a ½ inch difference in height from one end of the slide to the other when I measure from the top.

I've independently jacked up both sides of the slide more than an inch each and checked the gap, but neither showed a difference. When I crawled underneath, I couldn't see where the slide might have moved laterally closer to the wall. The exterior stripes still line up. I also noticed the shower hasn't been used in 6 years or longer (I bought this coach used).

I'm wondering if this could be some kind of drooping issue? I've heard about things like rollers wearing out, but I honestly don't know what to look for or where to start troubleshooting. Should I be checking underneath the RV? Any advice on what might be causing this rubbing and smaller gap would be hugely appreciated! …more

I'm wondering if my grease choice is wrong for my 2003 Ford F53's front bearing replacement when my neighbor's identical motorhome runs perfectly after his service. The original grease that came out was a dark gray/black color and while there wasn't any catastrophic damage, the races showed enough wear marks that I decided to replace everything while I'm in there.

I've been researching different options and keep seeing conflicting recommendations. Some people swear by standard lithium grease, others recommend full synthetic formulations, and I've even seen mentions of specific brands like Valvoline MaxLife and Timken. I know the F53 chassis carries significantly more weight than a typical pickup truck, so I want to make sure I'm using something that can handle the load.

I have the torque procedure down (30 ft-lbs initial, back off, then final setting at 17 in-lbs), but I want to make sure I'm pairing that proper installation with the right grease. What specific grease products work best for the F53 front wheel bearings, and are there any compatibility issues I should be aware of when selecting a replacement grease? …more

I replaced my Dana 17060 rear pinion seal myself after getting quoted $1,800 for my 2018 Allegro 32SA and saved a fortune. I've been researching this repair and I'm honestly getting overwhelmed by what I'm reading about the complexity.

The more I dig into this, the more concerned I'm getting about the specialized tools needed and the precision required. I'm specifically wondering about the 650 lb torque specification, finding a socket that fits the nut and can work with a 1-inch drive, and the best method for removing a potentially loctited nut.

Is this realistically a DIY job for someone with decent mechanical skills? I've already marked my components for driveline alignment, but I'm unsure about seal removal tools, whether to use heat for nut removal, and if I should use loctite when reinstalling.

Is this something I should attempt myself or just pay for professional work? How long does this type of repair typically take, and what am I really looking at in terms of complexity? …more

Looked everywhere and my F-53 chassis is still showing 2.1 inches of body roll with quad shocks installed, but forums claim it should be under 1 inch. As a former high school auto mechanics instructor with 35 years of experience, I've carefully considered the shock design challenges in RV suspension.

I installed additional shocks after discovering that shock suppliers list a single shock design for F-53 chassis ranging from 16,000 to 26,000 lbs. I used Koni shocks ($170 each) and supplemented with Monroe shocks ($75 each) for additional dampening.

Installation required 10" bottom bolts and modified top mounting. I used hardened washers to prevent shock cover contact. Total bolt modification cost was approximately $18.

Completed a 30-mile test drive with no apparent harshness or negative handling characteristics. The suspension feels more controlled during normal driving conditions, but this limited test may not reveal the full performance picture.

What's the recommended approach for thoroughly evaluating quad shock performance on the F-53 platform? Specifically looking for guidance on testing duration, road conditions to assess, and key performance indicators to monitor during the break-in period. …more

Staring at my 1995 Ford F53 motorhome's rear sway bar bushings that look perfectly fine, probably a dumb question but why does this thing sway like crazy over every bump? I can hear some clunking back there and the handling feels loose and wallowy.

I'm planning to tackle this myself (because apparently I enjoy spending my weekends cursing at rusty bolts). When replacing these axle bushings, be extremely careful with bolt alignment. The nuts are welded to the bracket, and if you don't align everything precisely, you risk cross-threading, which can turn a simple job into a much longer project - I learned this the hard way and had to chisel off a nut.

I've got some photos documenting my process and can share those if anyone's interested. I did not need to replace the upper sway bar tie rod bushings this time. Should I stick with the original rubber ones or is it worth upgrading to something better? And since I'll already be crawling around under there getting dirty, are there any other components I should check or replace while everything's accessible? …more

Replaced the steering stabilizer on my old Class A and it completely fixed the wandering — but my 2017 Coachmen Pursuit 30FW feels totally different and I'm questioning everything. The steering requires constant correction to stay straight, and I'm worried about safety on the highway. I keep reading about steering stabilizers online, but I'm also seeing mentions of something called the "Quick Fix" and basic maintenance checks.

I don't want to spend money on a stabilizer if it's just going to mask a bigger problem, but I'm also concerned about driving without addressing the steering wander. Should I install a steering stabilizer first, or am I potentially making things worse by not fixing the root cause? What's the safest approach here? …more

Found oil mysteriously leaking from the rear hub area of my 2021 Newmar Bay Star 3626 on Ford F53 chassis even though I haven't touched anything back there. During highway operation, detected burning oil odor emanating from rear axle assembly. Visual inspection revealed oil accumulation on inside surface of rear tire, with leak pattern suggesting differential fluid migration.

No oil contamination observed in engine compartment. Leak appears to be progressing from rear hub area. Need technical confirmation: Is this presenting as classic axle seal failure? What are the immediate operational risks, particularly regarding brake system contamination? Seeking diagnostic confirmation and repair methodology for F53 rear hub seal replacement. …more