Results for "heater core"

Dashboard vents are blowing hot air even with the heater off and the AC running. Drove three hours in 95-degree heat with hot air hitting my face the whole time. Mechanic says the heater hose lines might be reversed from a previous repair job. …more

Ripping out my old Suburban water heater to install a Girard tankless but the wiring is completely different — DSI ignition board, different voltage requirements, and the old thermostat wiring doesn't match up. Need a clear wiring diagram for this swap. …more

I found myself replacing the heating element, flushing the tank, checking every connection — but my RV water heater still makes these loud popping and crackling noises whenever it's heating up. It's got me a bit worried since I'm not sure what's normal and what isn't with these systems.

Is this something I should be concerned about? Could it be dangerous or cause damage if I don't address it? I've heard people mention draining water heaters but I'm not really sure when that's necessary or how to tell if that's what mine needs. Any guidance would be really appreciated! …more

During my morning drive, that sharp, persistent beeping sound erupts from my 2022 Ford E-450 motorhome dashboard as the "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" message flashes relentlessly. Because nothing says "relaxing RV vacation" like mysterious warning lights, am I right?

The intermittent fault seems to be coming from the rear tires mostly, and of course it always happens at the most inconvenient times - like when I'm trying to convince my spouse that this whole RV lifestyle was a brilliant idea. I'm wondering if this is just a typical TPMS sensor going bad or if there's some sort of relearn procedure I need to do?

Since this beast is still under warranty, I'm hoping there's a straightforward fix that doesn't involve me pretending to understand tire sensor technology. Anyone know what the usual culprit is for these TPMS faults on the E-450 chassis? …more

Standing in my driveway at 2 AM with my overheating 2003 F53 6.8 V10 Rexhall Vision — desperately need to locate the engine coolant outlet and heater core connections before dawn departure. I can see the heater hoses going through the firewall, but I'm not sure where exactly on the engine the hot coolant comes out to supply the heater core.

I know there should be a supply line that sends hot coolant to the heater core and a return line that brings it back, but I'm having trouble identifying which is which and where they connect on the engine. Could someone help me understand where to look for the coolant outlet that feeds the heater core? I'd really appreciate any guidance on tracing these connections! …more

Old RV500 water heater is on its last legs and the PrecisionTemp RV550 looks like the perfect upgrade — endless hot water, no tank to maintain. But the installation guides I've found online skip over critical details. Need the full picture on what this swap actually involves. …more

Last week I flushed the cooling system on my 1999 Fleetwood Bounder with the Ford F53 Triton V10, and now the heater return hose from the engine to the dash is leaking antifreeze everywhere. The original hose has developed a leak where it connects to the metal heater return tube, and from what I can see, both the rubber hose section and the clamps look pretty deteriorated after 25 years of service.

I've never tackled this particular repair before on an RV with the V10 engine, and I want to make sure I understand the complete process before I start. I know I'll need to drain the coolant system, but I'm not entirely sure about the best approach for accessing both connection points - one at the engine block and the other at the firewall where it enters the cab area. The engine bay is pretty cramped with all the RV-specific components, so I want to be prepared with the right parts and know the proper sequence of steps.

Can someone walk me through the complete replacement procedure for the heater return hose on this Ford F53 V10 setup? I want to make sure I'm using the right type of replacement hose and clamps, and that I'm not missing any important steps in the process. …more

Called a repair shop about my 2018 Atwood RV water heater that's 6 years old and constantly throwing safety sensor errors — repair or replace? When I was troubleshooting a non-working 120V element, I discovered that the safety sensors don't seem to be making proper contact with the tank anymore. The foam padding that's supposed to hold them against the tank has completely deteriorated and is bulging out.

This seems like it could be a serious safety issue - aren't those sensors supposed to prevent overheating? I'm scared to use the water heater until I know it's safe. I've found an Atwood XT gas/electric model that seems similar to my current unit, which costs under $100. However, I need to confirm if it has the vent on the upper left corner as you look at it. Can I fix this myself by replacing the foam, or do I need to replace the whole unit? What kind of material should I use if I can repair it? I don't want to make things worse or create a fire hazard. …more

I turned off my RV's cooling system and grabbed my wrench — ready to install a ball valve on my 2008 Fleetwood Terra's heater line but need safety confirmation first. I've been battling what I suspect is a faulty electric heater valve that may not be closing completely when I switch to A/C mode.

The electric valve is expensive to replace and located in an incredibly awkward spot that's driving me crazy to access. I've tried everything - heat detectors, feeling around the lines, you name it - but I still can't definitively tell if it's actually sealing off hot coolant flow when the A/C is running.

Here's my question: Can I safely install a simple manual ball valve in the heater line before the existing electric valve? I'm hoping this would let me manually shut off coolant flow to the heater core when using A/C, essentially doing the job the electric valve should be doing. Will this cause any problems with the cooling system or damage anything? I just need to know if this is a safe solution before I start cutting into lines. …more

Our Motoraid heat exchanger is showing 180°F on the gauge but everything I've read says our 2008 Ford V10 RV should be running closer to 200°F. Currently experiencing an antifreeze leak around my Atwood GCH10A-4E hot water tank. The leak is draining my antifreeze reservoir quickly, costing me $53 per 3L refill (already on my third jug). I'm wondering if there's a safe way to temporarily bypass the engine heat assist system without risking engine damage until I can get professional repair. What temporary solutions or diagnostic steps would you recommend? …more