I'm really worried about my Atwood RV water heater right now. When I was troubleshooting a non-working 120V element, I discovered that the safety sensors don't seem to be making proper contact with the tank anymore. The foam padding that's supposed to hold them against the tank has completely deteriorated and is bulging out.
This seems like it could be a serious safety issue - aren't those sensors supposed to prevent overheating? I'm scared to use the water heater until I know it's safe. I've found an Atwood XT gas/electric model that seems similar to my current unit, which costs under $100. However, I need to confirm if it has the vent on the upper left corner as you look at it. Can I fix this myself by replacing the foam, or do I need to replace the whole unit? What kind of material should I use if I can repair it? I don't want to make things worse or create a fire hazard.
Atwood safety sensors need tank contact. Replace deteriorated foam with high-temp material, position sensors firmly against tank. If unit is old with multiple issues, consider replacement.
The Atwood water heater you found for under $100 sounds too good to be true - genuine Atwood combo gas/electric units typically run $300-600. That price suggests either a used unit, aftermarket replacement, or potentially a scam listing. Your current issues with deteriorated foam sensor padding and rusty front plate are common repair items that might be more cost-effective to fix than replacing the entire unit, especially since your tank is still good. The upper left vent configuration you mentioned is standard for most Atwood models, but you'll want to verify exact dimensions and mounting points before purchasing any replacement.
The deteriorated foam rubber holding your safety sensors is a classic Atwood issue, typically occurring after 5-8 years due to heat cycling and moisture exposure. When these foam pads fail, the high limit switch and ECO switch can't maintain proper contact with the tank, causing the electric element to shut down as a safety measure. This explains why your 120V element stopped working.
Rust on the front cover bottom is extremely common and usually results from condensation, road spray, and salt exposure. The good news is that surface rust on the cover doesn't affect functionality - it's purely cosmetic. However, if the rust has created holes or severely weakened the metal, replacement becomes necessary for proper combustion air flow and safety.
Your specific combination of symptoms - failed electric element due to sensor contact issues plus cosmetic front panel rust - suggests a unit that's been in service for several years but still has useful life remaining in the core components.
Before considering replacement, gather your current water heater's model number and serial number from the data plate. Measure the exterior dimensions, note the gas and water line locations, and photograph the electrical connections. Atwood makes several sizes (6-gallon, 10-gallon) with different mounting configurations, and you need exact compatibility.
For the sensor repair, order the correct sensor foam pad kit for your model (verify with dealer). You can also purchase just the front door assembly if yours is beyond repair - pricing will vary depending on your specific model. Check RV parts suppliers like Camping World, etrailer, or RecPro for current pricing.
If you're serious about the $100 replacement unit, verify it's legitimate by requesting the seller provide the model number, manufacturing date, and detailed photos of the data plate. Ask about warranty and return policy. Most importantly, confirm the vent location, gas orifice size, and mounting dimensions match your installation exactly.
WARNING: Shut off gas supply and allow unit to cool completely before beginning any work. Disconnect electrical power at the breaker panel.
Start with the sensor repair since it's likely your main functional issue. Remove the front access panel and locate the high limit switch and ECO sensor - they're typically mounted on spring-loaded brackets that should press against the tank. Clean any old foam residue from both the sensors and tank surface with isopropyl alcohol.
Install new foam pads on the sensor contact points, ensuring they're thick enough to maintain firm contact when the access panel is reinstalled. The foam should compress slightly when everything's buttoned up, keeping the sensors in constant contact with the tank surface. If the ECO switch was tripped, you may need to manually reset it by pressing the reset button. Test the electric element operation before proceeding.
For front panel rust, assess whether it's surface corrosion or structural damage. Surface rust can be treated with naval jelly or rust converter, primed, and repainted with high-temperature paint. If there are holes or severe weakening, replacement is the better option for safety reasons.
If replacing the entire unit, shut off gas and water supplies, disconnect electrical connections (take photos first), and carefully remove the old unit. The new unit should drop into the same mounting points, but verify all connections align properly before final installation.
Call a professional if you're uncomfortable working with gas lines or if you discover any gas leaks during your inspection. Gas appliance work requires permits in many areas, and insurance may require professional installation for warranty coverage.
Get expert help if the electrical connections seem complex or if you're unsure about proper grounding. Water heater electrical work involves 120V circuits that can be dangerous if improperly handled. Additionally, if your RV has any kind of automatic ignition system or electronic controls, professional diagnosis might save time and prevent damage to expensive control boards.
Consider professional consultation before purchasing that $100 replacement unit. An experienced RV tech can quickly assess whether your current unit is worth repairing versus replacing, and they often have access to reliable parts sources that might make repair more attractive than you initially thought. They can also verify compatibility and ensure any replacement unit meets current safety codes and manufacturer specifications.
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