When your RV converter runs but won't charge batteries, the issue is usually a faulty converter charging section, blown fuse, or bad battery connections. Start by checking the DC fuses and testing voltage output from the converter.
Dual purpose lithium batteries work for coach use but dedicated deep cycle lithium is better for house banks. Dual purpose compromises between starting and cycling. For RV house batteries, deep cycle LiFePO4 provides better value and cycle life.
Yes, you can remove inverter/charger and install standalone battery charger. Much less expensive than replacement inverter. Check if inverter includes transfer switch - you may need to address that. IOTA or Progressive Dynamics chargers work well.
LiFePO4 lithium batteries like the Dyness can replace lead acid batteries, but you'll likely need to upgrade your converter/charger to a lithium-compatible model. The BMS protects the battery from overcharging and provides longer life with faster charging.
Common RV components with red lights include LP detector, CO detector, surge protector, and inverter. Red typically indicates fault or alarm. Check for model numbers to identify and post photo for specific help.
When a Suburban RV furnace only works on battery power but fails to heat on shore power, the issue is typically a converter providing incorrect voltage (13.8V+ instead of 12V) to the control board. The solution involves checking voltage levels and potentially adjusting or replacing the converter.
RV batteries draining overnight typically indicate a parasitic drain from components staying powered when they shouldn't. Use a multimeter to test each circuit systematically, starting with the main disconnect and working through individual fuses to isolate the problem circuit.
RV 12V systems typically use 40A auto-reset breakers with dual 6V batteries and WFCO converters. Check breaker rating stamped on unit. Common sizes are 30A, 40A, and 50A.
When AGM batteries won't fully charge after voltage fluctuations, the most likely culprits are a damaged converter/charger, faulty charge controller, or sulfated batteries. Test your charging system voltage output and battery condition to identify the root cause.
Beyond batteries: verify converter is lithium-compatible, add DC-DC charger for alternator charging. Choose LiFePO4 batteries with built-in BMS. Check if 2023 GT7 has lithium-ready charging system - some newer models do.
Connect second charger directly to battery terminals with own fusing. Do not tap into existing converter wiring. Each charger needs independent AC input. Consider replacing failing WFCO with single better unit instead of adding second charger.
Two batteries using more water indicates failing cells or connection issues. Check terminal tightness, measure voltage during charging on each battery, and test specific gravity. Higher voltage on some batteries indicates internal resistance. May be warranty issue at 6 months old.
Your 30 amp generator will power any RV converter charger. For lithium, get charger with proper LiFePO4 profile. Progressive Dynamics, IOTA with IQ-Lifepo4, or Victron all work well. Match amp rating to battery bank capacity.
LiFePO4 offers longer life and lighter weight but requires checking converter and alternator compatibility on 2003 Terra. For light use replacing lead acid every 2 years, break-even takes 6-8 years. Consider if usage pattern justifies higher upfront cost.
Yes, you can likely replace your 2018 Georgetown's original lead acid house batteries with lithium, but you'll need to check your converter's charging profile and possibly upgrade it. Most 2018 Georgetown models came with converters that may not have lithium-compatible charging algorithms.