Results for "furnace-replacement"

Between my toolbox and the YouTube tutorials I've watched, I'm ready to tackle the LPG tank refill setup on my permanently parked 2000 Safari Sahar 32-footer. Since my wife and I live in California and visit several times per year to help her aging parents, the RV serves as a stationary dwelling with full hookups for shore power and water.

The challenge is that the coach won't be moved to drive to propane filling stations, so I'm exploring on-site refill options. I'm specifically interested in potentially transferring propane from a standard 40lb grill tank to our RV's fixed tank. I want to understand what type of fitting our Safari Sahar has and what safety considerations or special equipment might be required for liquid-to-liquid propane transfer.

Since we'll need heating during colder months and my wife will sometimes be at the RV without me, I want to ensure a reliable and safe refill method. What are my options for refilling the LPG tank without moving the motorcoach? …more

Tried running my RV's electric heating this winter but it's eating through power way faster than it should, so I'm looking at adding Coleman Mach heat strips. I have a SportTrek Touring 272VRK with two AC units (Coleman-Mach 13.5k BTU and 15k BTU, models 48203-069 and 48204-069) with Cool-Only Control Boxes (model 8330-752) and I'm considering adding Coleman Mach electric heat strips, but I'm worried about a few things.

First, I'm concerned about whether my current AC units are compatible with heat strips - specifically the Coleman Mach 37203-4551 Electric Heat Kit/Strip. I want to confirm this will work with my existing 8330-752 control boxes. Second, I'm worried about the electrical load - I keep reading about heat strips drawing a lot of power and I'm scared of overloading my system or tripping breakers.

Most importantly, I absolutely do NOT want to lose the ability to use my existing Suburban SF-30FQ 30,000 BTU propane furnace - it's my primary heat source and I need that independence. I currently have 9420a381 digital thermostats controlling these systems, and I want to ensure I can maintain my current setup.

Is there a way to safely add Coleman Mach heat strips using some kind of Heat-Ready Control Box without compromising my furnace operation? I just want some reassurance that this can be done properly without creating problems. …more

Turned to YouTube for RV solar advice and now I'm more confused than ever - probably a dumb question, but how do I actually size this thing? Could fellow RV owners share details about their current solar setups?

Please provide insights on:
- Total system watts
- Fixed or portable panels
- Rigid or flexible panel types
- Series or parallel wiring configuration
- Total system amps
- System voltage
- Wire gauge used
- Controller type
- Personal pros and cons of your current setup
- What you might change in a future installation

These details will help establish baseline specifications for a fleet installation project. …more

The YouTube tutorials I followed to fix my Dometic DFMD35111 furnace that runs 10 seconds then dies actually made it worse—now it won't even start! Every time I try to run it, the same thing happens - it fires up, runs for exactly 10 seconds, then just shuts off completely. This has been going on for weeks now and I'm getting desperate since the weather is getting colder.

I've been trying to troubleshoot this myself but honestly don't know where to start. I can hear the blower running and the unit seems to ignite initially, but then it just dies. Is this a common problem with these Dometic units? I'm really hoping this is something I can fix myself rather than having to call out an expensive repair tech.

What are the most likely culprits when a furnace runs for just 10 seconds then shuts down? I need to know what components to check first before I start taking things apart. …more

Last week I picked up my 2007 Holiday Rambler and discovered the previous owner left the alternator-to-battery charging system a dangerous wiring disaster that could destroy my new lithium batteries.

I'm upgrading from four 6V lead-acid house batteries to lithium, and I keep reading conflicting advice about alternator charging. Some people say "just connect it directly," others are warning about alternator damage and proper current limiting. I'm planning to add a DC-to-DC charger eventually, but I'm confused about whether I can safely use the alternator to charge lithium batteries in the meantime.

What's the right way to handle alternator charging with lithium batteries? Should I disconnect the alternator feed completely until I get a proper charging system, or is there a safe way to make this work without turning my alternator into an expensive paperweight? …more

Around midnight in the RV parts aisle staring at furnace components with no clue why my 2016 Heartland Bighorn's Suburban furnace acts totally different on shore power versus battery. When I'm running off battery power, the thing works like a champ - fires up, heats great, cycles on and off perfectly.

But the second I plug into shore power? It's like the furnace forgets how to do its job. It'll run for about 4 minutes, never actually produce heat, then shut off and lock out until I reset everything. The only way to get it working again is to disconnect shore power and cycle the battery.

I'm wondering if this is some kind of converter problem? Like maybe it's sending the wrong voltage to the furnace control board when on shore power? Has anyone run into this before and know what voltage levels I should be checking? …more

Woke up to my Aliner classic's power system working perfectly in 60°F weather, but now that it's 85°F outside I'm drowning in solar versus gas generator confusion. Coming from a Rialta with a built-in generator where I just added some solar panels, I'm now starting from scratch with just one 88Ah lead acid battery and need to figure out the most practical setup for my boondocking needs.

My power requirements are pretty straightforward - laptop, house lights, furnace for overnight heating, and the occasional use of my 1800-watt toaster oven which is really the main power challenge. In my previous RV, I had 160Ah of lead acid batteries with a 100W solar panel that handled everything except the toaster oven, which required firing up the generator. I'm considering adding 200W of solar panels to this setup.

Here's where I'm getting confused: I've been looking at 2000-2500 watt generators with minimum 1900 running watts, but I heard you shouldn't run more than 80% of the running watts capacity, which would mean I need about 2300 running watts just to safely operate my 1800W toaster oven. Is that calculation correct? Alternatively, I'm wondering if I could skip the generator entirely and run the toaster oven off a large battery bank with a proper inverter - but I have no idea how much battery capacity that would require or if it's even practical. What's the most cost-effective approach for someone who primarily needs reliable power for essential loads but occasionally wants to use higher-wattage cooking appliances? …more

The multimeter's charged and screwdrivers are laid out — ready to fix this Suburban KT30 Furnace 521099 circuit board myself, just need the proper wiring sequence. I upgraded my Suburban KT30 furnace with the new 521099 circuit board and 528039 adapter harness after the original board failed. The good news is I now have power to the gas valve through the brown wire - that part's working!

But here's what's driving me crazy: when the gas valve opens, I'm only getting ONE spark at the electrode instead of the continuous 5-7 seconds of sparking I should be getting. I've been digging through wiring diagrams and realized the old board had a dedicated wire for the flame sensor, but the new setup just has me grounding that old flame sensor wire.

I'm pretty sure this flame sensor wiring issue is what's causing the single spark problem instead of continuous ignition, but I can't figure out how to properly wire it with this new 521099 board. Has anyone successfully done this upgrade and gotten the flame sensor circuit working correctly? …more

Turned down a Class A with a heat pump because I'm terrified of being that neighbor constantly tripping breakers — am I overthinking this? We're plugged into 30-amp service at home while I pretend to know what I'm doing with all these fancy RV features.

Basically, I need to know how many amps this heat pump is going to suck down when it kicks on. I'm already running the usual suspects - fridge, lights, maybe the TV so I can ignore my responsibilities - and I'd rather not find out the hard way that I'm overloading everything. Anyone know the typical amp draw so I can at least look semi-competent when explaining to my spouse why the power keeps cutting out? …more

Thinking about upgrading my 2018 Georgetown from lead acid to lithium batteries but worried about compatibility with the existing converter and charging system. Don't want to spend $2,000 on batteries only to find out I need another $1,500 in electrical upgrades to make them work. …more