I'm working on upgrading the power system in my newly acquired Aliner classic and feeling completely overwhelmed by all the options. Coming from a Rialta with a built-in generator where I just added some solar panels, I'm now starting from scratch with just one 88Ah lead acid battery and need to figure out the most practical setup for my boondocking needs.
My power requirements are pretty straightforward - laptop, house lights, furnace for overnight heating, and the occasional use of my 1800-watt toaster oven which is really the main power challenge. In my previous RV, I had 160Ah of lead acid batteries with a 100W solar panel that handled everything except the toaster oven, which required firing up the generator. I'm considering adding 200W of solar panels to this setup.
Here's where I'm getting confused: I've been looking at 2000-2500 watt generators with minimum 1900 running watts, but I heard you shouldn't run more than 80% of the running watts capacity, which would mean I need about 2300 running watts just to safely operate my 1800W toaster oven. Is that calculation correct? Alternatively, I'm wondering if I could skip the generator entirely and run the toaster oven off a large battery bank with a proper inverter - but I have no idea how much battery capacity that would require or if it's even practical. What's the most cost-effective approach for someone who primarily needs reliable power for essential loads but occasionally wants to use higher-wattage cooking appliances?
For 1800W toaster oven, need 2300W+ running watt generator at 80% capacity. Battery alternative requires 400Ah lithium with 3000W inverter. Most practical: hybrid approach with 200Ah battery for essentials and small generator for cooking.
Kelly, for your A-liner Classic with your current usage pattern, you'll need a hybrid approach. Your 1800-watt toaster oven is the game-changer here - running it from batteries alone would require a massive, expensive battery bank that's impractical for your trailer. You're absolutely right about the 80% generator rule: to safely run your 1800-watt toaster oven, you need at least 2250 running watts, so a 2500-watt generator is your minimum requirement. For everything else (laptop, lights, furnace), upgrading to 300-400 amp hours of battery capacity with 200-400 watts of solar will handle your boondocking needs beautifully, just like your old Rialta setup but scaled up for the A-liner's different power system.
Your confusion is completely understandable because you're dealing with two different power paradigms. High-wattage appliances like toaster ovens are generator territory, while your daily electronics and lighting are perfect for a solar/battery system. The key is sizing each system for its specific job rather than trying to make one do everything.
The math on running that toaster oven from batteries reveals why it's so challenging. At 1800 watts, you'd need a 2200-2500-watt pure sine wave inverter (about $400-600), and the power draw would be roughly 188 amps from your 12V battery bank (accounting for inverter efficiency losses). Even with 400 amp hours of lithium batteries (costing $2000-3000), you'd only get 2-3 hours of toaster oven use before depleting your batteries significantly. That's before considering the massive solar array needed to recharge them.
Your A-liner's compact size also limits battery and solar panel real estate compared to larger RVs. Unlike your old Rialta with its built-in generator compartment, the A-liner requires external solutions, which actually gives you more flexibility but requires more planning. The 80% generator rule exists because generators run more efficiently and last longer when not pushed to their maximum output, plus it provides safety margin for startup surges that many appliances create.
Lead acid batteries also compound the challenge because you shouldn't discharge them below 50% capacity regularly. So your current 88 amp hour battery really only gives you 44 usable amp hours, and even upgrading to two Group 27s (160 amp hours total) only provides 80 usable amp hours - barely enough for basic lighting and electronics, let alone high-draw appliances.
Start by calculating your actual power needs beyond the toaster oven. List every device you use, its wattage, and hours of daily use. Your laptop probably draws 50-70 watts, LED lights maybe 3-5 watts each, and the furnace fan around 6-8 amps when running. This baseline will determine your battery bank size - aim for 300-400 amp hours of usable capacity, which means 600-800 amp hours of lead acid or 300-400 amp hours of lithium.
For the generator, focus on models with true sine wave output and low THD (total harmonic distortion) ratings. Yamaha EF2400iSHC or Champion 2500-watt inverter generators are reliable choices that can handle your 1800W toaster oven. Check the noise ratings too - anything over 65 dB will annoy nearby campers. Budget $800-1500 for a quality unit that will last years of weekend use.
Measure your A-liner's roof space for solar panels. Standard 100-watt panels are roughly 40" x 20", so you can probably fit 200-400 watts depending on roof accessories. Factor in wiring, charge controller (MPPT type for efficiency), and mounting hardware - budget $1-2 per watt installed for the complete solar system.
Phase one: Upgrade your battery bank to handle your non-toaster-oven loads. If going lead acid, install two Group 31 AGM batteries (200-220 amp hours total) with proper ventilation and a quality battery monitor. For lithium, a single 300 amp hour LiFePO4 battery gives you nearly four times the usable power of your current setup. Install a proper battery disconnect switch and fusing for safety.
Phase two: Install your solar system starting with the charge controller - mount it close to the batteries in a ventilated area. Run 10 AWG wiring from roof to controller, using MC4 connectors and proper entry boots. Mount panels using VHB tape with additional mechanical fasteners for wind load, and sealant, or dedicated mounting brackets. A 40-amp MPPT controller handles up to 400 watts of panels and includes battery monitoring features.
Phase three: Select and set up your generator system. The Honda EU2200i delivers 1600 running watts (1800 starting watts), which is insufficient for your 1800W toaster oven, runs quietly at 48-57 dB, and includes eco-mode for fuel efficiency. Always position generators at least 20 feet from your RV and other campers, with exhaust directed away from living areas to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning. Create a dedicated storage compartment or invest in a generator box to protect it from weather. Install a 30-amp inlet if your A-liner doesn't have one, allowing you to plug the generator directly into your RV's electrical system.
Wire a transfer switch or at minimum install clear labeling to prevent accidentally running shore power and generator simultaneously. Ensure proper grounding and bonding of all generator electrical connections per NEC guidelines for safety. Test the complete system: batteries should handle your overnight and day-long electronics needs, solar should maintain the batteries during sunny days, and the generator should easily run your toaster oven for morning coffee and evening cooking without straining.
If electrical work makes you nervous, hire a certified RV technician for the 12V battery bank installation and any 120V generator connections. Improper wiring can cause fires or damage expensive equipment. Many RV service centers offer power system consultations for $100-200 that include load calculations and system recommendations specific to your usage patterns.
Consider joining online forums like Cheap RV Living or Solar Power with Will Prowse for ongoing support and troubleshooting. These communities include experienced boondockers who've solved similar power challenges in compact RVs. For professional consulting, companies like AM Solar or Go Power offer remote consultations and complete system designs, though expect to pay $300-500 for detailed engineering.
Your power needs are actually quite reasonable and achievable with the right combination of systems. Many A-liner owners successfully boondock with similar setups, running their high-draw appliances on generator power for short periods while living comfortably on battery power the rest of the time. The key is accepting that some appliances simply make more sense with a generator rather than trying to force everything through batteries.
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