Results for "10 year rule"

Called three dealerships about oil contamination in my 1999 Ford F53 V10's coolant system — before I tackle this head gasket nightmare myself. The unit overheated after the oil level dropped significantly, though it still starts and runs without throwing any codes.

Based on the symptoms, I suspect a blown head gasket, but I want to perform proper diagnostic testing before committing to a major repair. What specific diagnostic procedures should I run to confirm whether this is actually a head gasket failure versus other potential causes like a cracked head or block issue?

Looking for a systematic approach to pinpoint the exact problem before I start tearing into this engine. …more

Turned on my 2024 Entegra Reatta XL this morning to find the house batteries completely dead again despite being plugged into 50 amp shore power—third time this season and I'm done guessing. New batteries, good connections, power was working fine for days then died completely. Voltmeter shows 12.69V on chassis, 4.7V on house batteries at the BIM.

What's the proper troubleshooting sequence for house batteries not charging on shore power? Need to check converter, breakers, and connections but want to do this systematically. …more

Nobody can seem to agree on whether I should winterize my RV sewer hose system now or wait until temperatures actually threaten my specific setup. Current setup involves a dual-hose configuration with approximately 30 feet total length running to septic connection point.

Critical issue: The final two feet of hose rises approximately two inches above the main run elevation before connecting to the septic inlet. This creates a low point where effluent can accumulate rather than draining completely. Overnight temperatures are forecast to drop to 25°F for the next 48 hours.

What is the precise freezing temperature for RV sewer hoses, and does the uphill section with potential standing water create additional freeze risk at this temperature threshold? …more

Turned onto that steep mountain grade last week and heard grinding from my 2014 F53 chassis, but I can't figure out how to properly inspect the brake pads and rotors. I've been crawling around under there, contorting myself into every possible position, but I just can't get a good view of the brake components through the wheel openings.

Is there a specific technique or approach that actually works for getting a proper look at the pad thickness and rotor condition? I really want to stay on top of brake maintenance, but the limited visibility is making this nearly impossible. Should I be using special tools, or is there a better method I'm missing? …more

RV cranks for 10-15 seconds before finally firing up, and it's getting worse each week. Used to start on the first crank every time. Fuel pressure seems low at the rail but I'm not sure if it's the pump, filter, injectors, or something else entirely in the fuel system. …more

Noticed my 06 Pace Arrow is 18 years old and the dual zone AC's zone 1 is starting to completely fail with a blinking green LED — repair or replace? Zone 2 is working fine with a steady green LED on the control board, but zone 1 has this annoying blinking green LED that I'm pretty sure means something's wrong.

The thermostat isn't showing zone 1 anymore either. I'm thinking it's gotta be the control board since zone 2 is chugging along just fine with the same setup. Anyone know if a blinking LED definitely means the board is toast? And is there a way to test this without just buying a new board and hoping for the best? …more

Got three YouTube tutorials under my belt trying to fix my gas motorhome's air horn compressor fuse problem since May, but now it's blowing fuses even faster. System functioned properly through summer operation. Recently discovered air horns non-functional with blown 25-amp inline fuse. Replaced fuse and attempted system energization - fuse blows immediately upon key activation.

Conducted continuity testing between compressor motor leads (red/black wires) using digital multimeter. Results show full continuity, indicating potential short circuit condition. Testing reveals continuity between power lead and air tank connection points as well. The two connectors at the top of the air tank also show continuity.

Based on immediate fuse failure and continuity readings across motor windings, suspect either seized compressor motor or internal wiring short. What diagnostic steps should I follow to isolate whether this is a motor failure requiring compressor replacement versus other system components? I've already sent an inquiry to the manufacturer a week ago with no response. …more

Woke up to my Aliner classic's power system working perfectly in 60°F weather, but now that it's 85°F outside I'm drowning in solar versus gas generator confusion. Coming from a Rialta with a built-in generator where I just added some solar panels, I'm now starting from scratch with just one 88Ah lead acid battery and need to figure out the most practical setup for my boondocking needs.

My power requirements are pretty straightforward - laptop, house lights, furnace for overnight heating, and the occasional use of my 1800-watt toaster oven which is really the main power challenge. In my previous RV, I had 160Ah of lead acid batteries with a 100W solar panel that handled everything except the toaster oven, which required firing up the generator. I'm considering adding 200W of solar panels to this setup.

Here's where I'm getting confused: I've been looking at 2000-2500 watt generators with minimum 1900 running watts, but I heard you shouldn't run more than 80% of the running watts capacity, which would mean I need about 2300 running watts just to safely operate my 1800W toaster oven. Is that calculation correct? Alternatively, I'm wondering if I could skip the generator entirely and run the toaster oven off a large battery bank with a proper inverter - but I have no idea how much battery capacity that would require or if it's even practical. What's the most cost-effective approach for someone who primarily needs reliable power for essential loads but occasionally wants to use higher-wattage cooking appliances? …more

Between leaving my campsite last night and starting up this morning, my Ford E-450 Class C developed this awful front-end squeaking that definitely wasn't there before. My 2004 E-450 Class C with 54k miles has developed a squeak coming from the front end, and I'm not sure how to figure out what's causing it.

The squeak seems to happen at different times - sometimes when I'm braking, other times when going over bumps or rough roads. I've heard it could be anything from brake issues to suspension problems, but I honestly don't know how to tell the difference or what to check first.

Could someone help me understand how to properly diagnose where this front squeak is coming from? I'd really appreciate any step-by-step guidance on what to look for and how to identify whether it's a brake problem versus suspension issue. …more

About 7 years ago leveling fixed my old Dometic's cooling issues — but this Maybe-Cold N8X (Serial 28221668) absorption fridge has me completely stumped. This thing is driving me absolutely crazy! It heats up just fine on both AC and propane - no issues there at all. But the cooling is completely unpredictable. Sometimes it works perfectly, other times it just stops cooling for no apparent reason, even in the middle of the night when temperatures are stable.

I've been tracking temps with data loggers and can see it just randomly stops cooling even though there are no error codes flashing. The thermostat tests good at about 8k ohms at 85°F, which matches what the service manual says it should be. I've got fans helping with air circulation and exhaust ventilation, so I don't think it's an airflow problem.

Before I throw in the towel and replace this entire fridge, what should I be checking? Is this a cooling unit failure, or could it be something with the control board or sensors? I really need to figure out what's actually failing here because this intermittent cooling is making our trips miserable! …more

Finally at 11 PM my 2016 Thor Miramar's brake warning light just lit up bright red on the F53 chassis — need this solved before tomorrow's departure. The park brake warning light on my dashboard stays on even when the brake isn't engaged, and I get that annoying warning chime when driving.

I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting this. Could this be a fluid issue or maybe a stuck switch? I'd really appreciate some guidance on what the most common causes are and what I should check first. Thanks for any help! …more

Nobody wants to deal with the same front marker light issues on their 2013 Forest River Georgetown 377XL's Ford F53 chassis every single camping season.

The lights work sometimes but not others, and I can't figure out the pattern. I've already checked fuses and replaced the bulbs, but I'm hesitant to start pulling apart wiring without knowing what I'm doing. I keep reading about electrical problems getting worse if you don't fix them right, and I really don't want to create a bigger issue.

What are the most likely causes for intermittent marker light failures on F53 chassis? I'm hoping there's a systematic way to troubleshoot this without risking damage to the electrical system. …more

Standing in front of a 2015 Winnebago Vista V-10 that pulses during acceleration — should I walk away or is this worth buying and fixing? My 2015 Winnebago Vista with the F53 chassis and V-10 engine developed this awful pulsing problem during acceleration after driving through mountain passes in Montana. It feels like the engine is cutting out then surging back - not rough idle or jerking, just this frustrating loss of power that comes and goes.

I've tried everything I can think of - checked vacuum hoses, inspected connections, even tried fuel additives thinking it was bad gas. The diagnostic scan only showed one code: "Fault received from External Node" which apparently relates to the instrument cluster, but the tech had no clue what that actually means or if it's connected to my acceleration problems.

What could be causing this pulsing issue on a V-10 after mountain driving? I'm hoping someone has seen this before because I'm running out of ideas and really need to get this figured out before my next trip. …more