Quick Answer
Motor should run in Store mode for HWH jacks. If jacks extend but not retract, likely the retract solenoid valve or its wiring. Spring replacement should not affect hydraulic function unless lines were disturbed. Contact HWH for technical support.
Tools & Parts Needed
The Rundown
Yes, you absolutely should hear the motor running when you hit the "Store" button on your HWH stabilizer jack system, just like when you're extending them. The fact that you're not hearing the motor run when retracting but it works fine for extension tells me you likely have a hydraulic valve issue or a wiring problem in the retraction circuit. The spring replacement you did shouldn't prevent the motor from running - those springs only help support the jack weight, they don't control the hydraulic operation. Since your jacks worked before the spring replacement and now won't retract at all, something got disturbed during the repair process.
The good news is this is likely a fixable issue that doesn't require pushing your RV off a cliff (though I completely understand the frustration!). Most HWH systems have separate solenoid valves for extend and retract operations, and it sounds like your retract valve may have failed, gotten disconnected, or has a wiring issue that occurred during your spring work.
Why It Happens
HWH stabilizer systems use a hydraulic pump motor that runs in one direction. The system uses solenoid valves to control hydraulic flow direction - one valve directs pressurized fluid to extend the jacks, and another valve controls the flow path for retraction. When you press "Store," the motor should run and you should hear it clearly. The system relies on solenoid valves to control the hydraulic flow direction, and these valves can fail or lose their electrical connections.
During your spring replacement work, several things could have been disturbed: wiring connections to the retract solenoid valve may have been loosened or disconnected, the valve itself could have been bumped and damaged, or debris could have gotten into the hydraulic lines. It's also possible that bleeding air into the system during spring replacement has created an air lock that prevents proper retraction flow.
The fact that extension still works perfectly suggests the pump motor and main hydraulic components are fine - this isolates the problem to the retraction-specific components. The smaller springs you initially tried likely aren't related to this issue, as springs don't affect the hydraulic motor operation at all.
Gather These Items
- Digital multimeter for testing electrical connections
- Basic hand tools (screwdrivers, wrenches) to access control box
- HWH hydraulic fluid (typically AW-32 or equivalent)
- Clean rags for cleanup
- Flashlight or headlamp for inspection
- Wire brush or contact cleaner for cleaning connections
- Electrical tape or wire nuts for repairs
- Jack stands or blocks for safety support
The Fix
Before beginning any work, ensure the RV is properly supported with jack stands or blocks - never work on hydraulic jack systems while relying solely on the jacks for support. Start by locating your HWH control box, usually mounted under the RV near the jacks. With the system off and power disconnected, check all electrical connections to ensure nothing came loose during your spring work. Look specifically for the retract solenoid valve wiring - these are typically separate from the extend valve wires. Clean any corroded connections with contact cleaner and ensure all connections are tight.
Next, test the system by having someone press the "Store" button while you listen at the control box. If you hear clicking but no motor running, the retract solenoid is getting power but the motor isn't responding. If you hear nothing at all, you likely have a wiring or control panel issue. Use your multimeter to check for 12V power at the retract solenoid when the Store button is pressed.
If electrical connections check out, the issue may be hydraulic. Check your fluid level first - low fluid can cause retraction problems even when extension works. If fluid is adequate, you may need to bleed the system following HWH's bleeding procedure (consult your manual for proper bleeding valve operation), as air introduced during spring replacement can create air pockets in the hydraulic lines.
For persistent issues, inspect the retract solenoid valve itself. These valves can fail internally or get stuck with debris. HWH retract solenoid valves typically cost $75-150 and can be replaced with basic tools. If you find the valve clicking but not allowing flow, replacement is usually the solution.
Know Your Limits
This repair is well within most DIY RV owner capabilities, especially since you successfully completed the spring replacement work. The electrical diagnostics are straightforward with a multimeter, and solenoid valve replacement is typically a simple bolt-in procedure. Budget about 2-4 hours for diagnosis and repair, with parts costs ranging from $20 for wiring issues up to $150 for solenoid replacement.
However, if you discover internal hydraulic pump problems or need to rebuild the entire hydraulic system, that's when you should call a professional HWH dealer. Internal pump repairs require special tools and expertise that most RV owners don't have. Also, if you're not comfortable working with 12V electrical systems, have a qualified RV technician handle the electrical diagnosis to avoid damaging the control system.
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