Results for "spare tire"

Spent years doing regular EGR maintenance on my old gas motorhome without issues — but this 2007 Fleetwood 31' Tioga with Ford V10 Triton has me second-guessing everything. I keep reading conflicting information about EGR delete procedures on V10 engines, and I'm worried I might make things worse if I mess with it.

Is the EGR delete modification actually necessary on this 2007 3-valve V10, or am I overthinking this? I don't want to void any warranties or create problems that weren't there before. Would I be better off just sticking to regular maintenance instead of modifications? I'm looking for reassurance that I'm taking the right approach to keep this engine running reliably for years to come. …more

Called three different tire shops this month about my 2020 Newmar Ventana's Michelin 275/70R22.5 tires and all want them replaced just for being 6 years old despite perfect tread. I'm meticulous about tire maintenance - I check air pressure religiously before and after every trip, whether it's a short weekend getaway or an extended cross-country journey like the 5000-mile trip I just completed.

Despite my careful maintenance routine, I experienced a blowout on the right rear inside tire during the final leg of that recent long trip. When the roadside service technician came out to help, he recommended replacing all six tires specifically because of their age, even though the remaining tires still have plenty of tread depth and appear to be in excellent condition visually.

This has me confused because I've heard conflicting advice from other RV owners - some say well-maintained motorhome tires can safely last up to 10 years, while others insist on much shorter replacement intervals. I'm trying to understand what the actual safety guidelines are for RV tire replacement based on age versus tread wear. Should I really replace tires that still look good just because of when they were manufactured? What's the real story on how tire age affects safety, and how do I properly check the manufacturing date to make this decision? …more

Before spending hundreds on new tires and suspension parts for my 2023 Ford E-450 Class C motorhome, the ride quality is still absolutely brutal. The RV is about 28 feet long and weighs approximately 14,500 pounds loaded. We use it primarily for family camping trips, but I also occasionally tow a small utility trailer with dirt bikes - probably 25% of our trips involve towing that extra 2,000-3,000 pounds.

I've been researching shock absorber upgrades and have narrowed it down to two main options that seem popular in the RV community: the Bilstein 4600 series and the Koni FSD (Frequency Selective Damping) shocks. I understand both are significant improvements over stock, but I'm trying to understand the practical differences between them for my specific setup and usage patterns.

What I really need to know is which option provides the best balance of ride comfort improvement, handling stability (especially when towing), and overall value for money on the E-450 chassis. I want to make sure I'm making the right choice since this is a fairly significant investment and I don't want to have buyer's remorse later. …more

According to my mechanic, my Ford E350 dually has mismatched wheel fitments, center holes that don't align properly, AND different sizing between front and rear wheels all at once. I have a 2001 Ford E350 Class C motorhome with dual rear wheels, and I desperately need to get a spare tire sorted out.

I found what I thought was the perfect rim - same bolt pattern as my existing wheels - but when I got home and really looked at it, the center hole is noticeably smaller than the ones currently on my RV. I've been assuming all six rims on a dually setup would be identical, but now I'm second-guessing everything.

Could it be that Ford actually uses different center hole sizes between the front wheels and rear dually wheels on the E350? I'm really hoping someone can clarify this because I need to know if I bought the wrong type of rim or if there's something else I'm missing here. …more

According to my old Class C setup this same hitch rating confusion was easily solved with basic math — but towing a Jeep behind this Class A motorhome has me worried about weight limits and legal liability. After checking the Jeep website, I noticed that most Jeep models weigh over 5100 lbs, which seems to exceed typical 5000 lb hitch ratings. Could this potentially expose RV owners to liability if something goes wrong during towing? I want to understand the weight implications and safety considerations before hooking up a vehicle. Does this mean most Jeep owners towing with a gasser Class A might be inadvertently exceeding safe towing limits? …more

Planning my next oil change but my viscosity readings are hitting breakdown at 3,000 miles when everything says synthetic blend should last 5,000 in my 2008 Ford V10. The owner's manual specifies Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend oil, which I've been using consistently. However, I've identified that Costco's Kirkland brand offers 5W-20 full synthetic at a lower cost point than my current oil.

From a technical standpoint, would transitioning from synthetic blend to full synthetic oil provide any measurable benefits for RV engine protection? I need to verify that the Kirkland full synthetic meets Ford's engine specifications before making this change. What are the performance differences between these oil formulations for heavy-duty RV applications? …more

Every time I crawl under my Class C RV I stare at that spare tire that's been hanging there for years collecting road grime — check or replace? I mean, it's there in the compartment looking all tire-like, but I'm wondering if there's stuff I should be checking?

I keep hearing horror stories about people getting stranded because their spare was useless when they actually needed it. Turns out this happened to me - I discovered my spare was the wrong size (245 75R16 instead of 225 75R16), which could have been a major problem during a blowout.

What's the smart move here for spare tire maintenance? I learned to check not just the tire size, but also the air pressure. Mine was sitting at just 58psi, which thankfully I could fix with my air compressor.

I'd hate to be that person calling for help on the side of the highway! Anyone else have similar experiences? …more

Finally hit my budget limit after other RV repairs — is there a way to fix my Coachman Euro 28' F53 Godzilla handling issues for under $500? After 18+ years driving diesel pushers, this thing rides like a covered wagon and steers like a shopping cart at highway speeds. I've gotten quotes for a full air ride suspension conversion at $30K, but that's nearly 20% of the $160K I paid for this RV.

I'm seriously considering the incremental upgrade route instead - maybe $15K spread across Koni shocks, Sumo Springs, sway bars, SuperSteer components, and better tires. Everyone says you can make meaningful improvements this way, but I'm worried I'll still end up disappointed and out the money.

Has anyone actually made their F53 chassis livable with the incremental approach? Can I really get 80% of the benefit for half the cost, or am I just throwing good money after bad? I need this thing to be safe and comfortable for Florida highway driving, but I'm tired of dumping money into what feels like a lost cause. …more

Standing in front of a 2015 Winnebago Vista V-10 that pulses during acceleration — should I walk away or is this worth buying and fixing? My 2015 Winnebago Vista with the F53 chassis and V-10 engine developed this awful pulsing problem during acceleration after driving through mountain passes in Montana. It feels like the engine is cutting out then surging back - not rough idle or jerking, just this frustrating loss of power that comes and goes.

I've tried everything I can think of - checked vacuum hoses, inspected connections, even tried fuel additives thinking it was bad gas. The diagnostic scan only showed one code: "Fault received from External Node" which apparently relates to the instrument cluster, but the tech had no clue what that actually means or if it's connected to my acceleration problems.

What could be causing this pulsing issue on a V-10 after mountain driving? I'm hoping someone has seen this before because I'm running out of ideas and really need to get this figured out before my next trip. …more

Replaced my old TPMS last month but planning to install this Hieha system Saturday — should I worry about going budget for tire safety? I keep reading horror stories about tire blowouts and I don't want to risk my family's safety with unreliable equipment.

Has anyone actually used the Hieha brand long-term? I'm particularly concerned about accuracy issues and whether the sensors will actually alert me when there's a real problem. Are there better options I should be considering even if they cost more? I'd rather spend extra money upfront than deal with a roadside emergency later. …more

Before I do anything else with my 2001 E350 RV, this rusty spare rim is eating through my confidence way faster than it should. The rim currently holds air pressure with an old 2005 tire mounted, indicating the bead seat may still be functional. However, I'm concerned about the safety implications of using a rim with visible rust damage on a 13,000-pound RV.

Specifically, I need to determine: Is surface rust on the outer rim area a structural concern or merely cosmetic? What's the proper inspection protocol when having a new tire mounted? The rim appears to seal properly at the bead, but I want to ensure this spare is roadworthy before installation. …more

Woke up ready to tackle my 2004 Ford F53 class A motorhome's wheel replacement — but would this be covered under my extended warranty if I need exact 19.5" wheel specifications? The chassis has 8 lug wheels, not 10. I'm having trouble finding the right replacement wheels that match E450/E550 specifications and want to make sure I get the correct specs before ordering. …more