Results for "noise reduction"

Before I even finish extending my 2018 Newmar 2702 slide-out, there's this grinding vibration that kicks in during the final positioning phase every single time. The motor works hardest during that last foot of travel when the slide settles into place.

This observation has me questioning optimal maintenance protocols for slide-out longevity. What are the most effective strategies for reducing mechanical wear on these systems? I'm particularly interested in understanding proper usage frequency, seal maintenance requirements, and whether partial extension during routine tasks like cleaning provides any protective benefits.

Looking for comprehensive guidance on preventive maintenance practices, lubrication schedules, and storage considerations that will maximize slide-out system lifespan while minimizing premature component failure. …more

Despite having a 2021 Coachmen Mirada, looking at my sound meter right now and there's 69 decibels of highway noise blasting through the cabin. My target is to achieve approximately 65 decibels for better communication with passengers.

I need a systematic approach to interior noise reduction. What are the most effective sound dampening materials and techniques for motorhomes? Specifically, I'm looking for solutions that address engine noise transmission, road noise, and any rattling components that contribute to the overall sound level.

What realistic noise reduction can I expect from proper sound deadening implementation, and what are the key areas to focus on for maximum impact? …more

Opened up my 2022 Holiday Rambler 36DB for spring prep and once again I'm staring at my 2021 Ford F53 chassis firewall wondering where those brake LED through-holes are hiding. I need to run the brake indicator LED wire from my toad to the dashboard inside the motorhome, but I'm having trouble locating the best firewall penetration point.

Rather than drilling a new hole through the firewall (which I'd prefer to avoid for obvious reasons), I'm hoping to find an existing through-hole or grommet that I can utilize. I've heard that Ford F53 chassis typically have several factory access points, but I'm not sure exactly where to look or which ones would be most suitable for this type of low-voltage wiring installation.

Can anyone provide specific guidance on where to find existing firewall through-holes on the F53 chassis that would work well for routing brake indicator wiring? I want to make sure I'm using an appropriate location that won't interfere with existing systems and will provide a clean, professional installation. …more

Opened up my motorhome and I'm staring at this hideous generic wall art — but before I start ripping it down, would that void my interior warranty? Since I'm only using it for 20-30 days a year, I'm wondering about the best approach to personalizing my space. I've noticed these factory pictures are pretty standard across RVs, but I'm curious how others handle this.

I'm worried about damaging walls or creating safety hazards while driving. The current pieces seem attached with velcro or screws, but I'm not sure how to remove them properly. More importantly, I want to understand weight limits and what materials are safe for RV walls. When I tried hanging a regular glass-framed photo last month, it rattled terribly going down the highway - clearly not the right approach!

Have other RV owners, especially those who are full-timers or occasional campers, replaced their standard artwork? What's the best way to remove existing mounted pieces and replace them with lightweight alternatives that won't become projectiles when traveling? …more

Walked out to prep our RV this morning and discovered our Lippert Power Gear slide motor is making grinding noises and won't extend properly. My RV's slide motor is failing and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get replacement parts. The slide is getting sluggish and I suspect it's either the motor brushes or possibly something in the gearbox itself.

I've been searching everywhere for Lippert Power Gear parts but I'm not sure where to look or what my options are. As it stands, the replacement parts are ridiculously expensive - a $100 gearbox, $50 brake, and $100 motor, but Lippert wants nearly $1000 for the whole assembly. I just want to replace the brushes, but they won't even sell those separately!

Can I buy just the motor component, or do I need to replace the entire gearbox assembly? I really need to know where I can actually purchase these parts and how to determine whether it's a motor issue or a gear problem before I spend a fortune on the wrong repair! …more

Before I drop $800 on having a shop install a 250A high output alternator on my mid-2000s F53 Triton V10, wondering if this is something I can DIY without breaking anything. I need to upgrade from the stock alternator to handle a large inverter battery bank, and I'm looking at high-output units in the 250A range.

I found this Tucson alternator that puts out 190A at idle for under $500, but I'm worried about whether the existing wiring and belt system can handle it safely. Could I damage the engine or electrical system if I just swap it in? What upgrades would I absolutely need to do this safely?

I've worked with high-output alternators on boats before, but RV chassis systems seem different and I don't want to create a fire hazard or burn out expensive components. Has anyone successfully done this upgrade without major issues? …more

Spent the weekend camping next to a couple with whisper-quiet AC while my wife kept complaining our Dometic Penguin 2 sounds like a freight train. I've been reading about the newer Fresh Jet 5 and wondering if it would be worth upgrading.

I'm mainly concerned about three things: Is the Fresh Jet 5 actually that much quieter than the existing Penguin 2 model? Will it use more power from my electrical system? And honestly, I'm not super handy with installations - would this be a straightforward replacement where I can swap out the Penguin 2 without extensive rewiring?

Any advice would be really helpful since this is a pretty big purchase for me and I want to make sure I understand what I'm getting into before I commit to the upgrade. …more

Staring at my 2003 Ford F53 motorhome chassis with terrible exhaust drone, poor acceleration up hills, AND that annoying factory muffler rattle all happening together. I'm worried about making things worse or causing damage - this RV is my home and I can't afford major problems.

Will this muffler actually provide any real performance benefits, or am I just asking for trouble? I'm especially concerned about the installation process - I've read it might need welding and exhaust modifications. Should I be worried about safety issues or voiding warranties? The chassis only has 30k miles and runs fine now, so part of me thinks I should just leave it alone. …more

Got this annoying water pump vibration in my RV and can't afford a service call right now — any way to fix it for under $50? Right now I have 1/2" PEX connected directly to the pump discharge, but I've read that's not the best setup and can cause vibrations throughout the system.

I'm thinking about installing one of those braided stainless steel supply lines (like the ones used for household faucets) right after the pump to help dampen the vibrations. The thing is, most of the braided supply lines I'm seeing are 3/8" inside diameter, while my current PEX is 1/2".

I'm worried about creating a bottleneck that might hurt my water pressure or flow rate. Would switching from 1/2" PEX to a 3/8" braided line right at the pump discharge significantly impact my water flow? I don't want to solve the vibration problem but end up with weak water pressure throughout the RV. Any guidance would be really appreciated! …more