Results for "no headlights"

Pulled out my multimeter on this dead F53 headlight situation and I'm getting 12.4V at the relay when every Ford manual says it should read 12.6V. My 1999 Mountain High Pinnacle Class A with 76,000 miles on a Ford F-53 chassis has me stumped - ALL four headlights (both high and low beams) just went completely dead, but here's the weird part: every single other light works perfectly. Taillights, brake lights, turn signals, markers - they're all fine.

When the headlight switch is on, there are no headlights at all, and the blue high beam indicator remains constantly lit. I noticed a strange clicking sound from under the hood about every 20-25 seconds, which continued even after disconnecting the coach and chassis batteries.

I've already replaced the headlight switch thinking that was the culprit, but the same problem persists. No headlights whatsoever when I flip the switch, whether I'm on high or low beam. I'm starting to think it might be the combination switch or maybe a relay with a potential dead short, but I don't want to start throwing parts at this thing without some guidance.

Has anyone dealt with this exact scenario on a late 90s Ford chassis? What should I be checking first? I really need to get this sorted out before my next trip. …more

Somewhere between installing my DC to DC charger and realizing I don't know my 2017 Ford E450's alternator output, I'm wondering if this setup could be dangerous with my kids living in our RV full-time? I've been down every rabbit hole - VIN lookups, parts catalogs, service manuals - and I keep getting conflicting information or just replacement part numbers instead of actual specifications.

I'm planning to install a DC to DC charger for my LiFePO4 house batteries, but I absolutely need to know the real alternator output before I size the charger. I've seen everything from 120 amps to over 200 amps mentioned for the E450, but nothing definitive for my specific year and configuration.

Can someone please tell me what the actual alternator rating is for the 2017 E450, and more importantly, what size DC to DC charger I can safely run without overloading the alternator? I really don't want to fry anything, but I also don't want to undersize the charger if I have more capacity available than I think. …more

After getting quoted $180 to replace my sticky pull switch on my 2001 Monaco Knight dashboard, I'm wondering if I can just convert it myself to two separate toggle switches for the headlights and marker lights instead.

Before I start tearing into the dash wiring, I want to make sure I understand the proper approach for this conversion. I'm particularly concerned about getting the wire connections right and ensuring the new toggle switches can handle the electrical loads properly. The current pull switch seems to control both lighting circuits, so I assume I'll need to separate those functions when I wire in the individual toggles.

What's the correct procedure for converting from a single pull switch to dual toggle switches for headlights and marker lights? I want to make sure I don't create any electrical issues or damage anything in the process. …more

Nobody wants to deal with the same front marker light issues on their 2013 Forest River Georgetown 377XL's Ford F53 chassis every single camping season.

The lights work sometimes but not others, and I can't figure out the pattern. I've already checked fuses and replaced the bulbs, but I'm hesitant to start pulling apart wiring without knowing what I'm doing. I keep reading about electrical problems getting worse if you don't fix them right, and I really don't want to create a bigger issue.

What are the most likely causes for intermittent marker light failures on F53 chassis? I'm hoping there's a systematic way to troubleshoot this without risking damage to the electrical system. …more

Apparently replacing the headlight relay, cleaning all ground connections, and checking alternator output means nothing when my 2000 Fleetwood Southwind Ford V-10 still drops to 10.3V under headlight load. The headlights have been consistently dim despite replacing the bulbs. My multimeter readings show 12.5V at the headlight connector when disconnected, but this drops to 10.3V when the headlight is plugged in and operating.

This 2.2V drop under load seems excessive and correlates with the poor light output I'm experiencing. What causes this level of voltage drop in RV headlight circuits, and does this require immediate repair for safety reasons? …more

Halfway through prepping for my Texas Class B road test tomorrow, my neighbor insists my unregistered 2011 Thomas Built school bus is fine, the DMV demands current registration, but online converters claim they passed with expired tags.

I really want to use my bus for the test since I know it well and it's got air brakes - definitely want that endorsement! The bus is fully insured and I've got the commercial one-way permit it was driven here on, but I can't get anyone at DPS on the phone to confirm if they'll even let me take the test. Anyone know if Texas DPS will accept a vehicle that's not properly registered yet, or am I setting myself up for a headache? …more

Woke up this morning hoping my 1995 F53 motorhome with the 460 7.5L would run smooth after replacing the ignition control module yesterday, but it's still stalling randomly. It keeps stalling every time I come to a stop - literally dies on me at around 5mph just as I'm braking. The power steering goes out and it's a real struggle to get stopped safely.

I can restart it immediately and it runs fine as long as I keep giving it gas, but this happens at EVERY stop sign and red light. Currently, it won't start at all - just cranks with no spark. I previously had an EGR code 334 that went away after replacing the EVR sensor.

My fuel pressure gauge was showing 30-32 psi at idle and about 40 psi at wide open throttle. When I tested the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, no fuel spilled out and the pressure didn't change.

I've already replaced many parts (including distributor cap, plugs, wires, EGR valve, ICM, fuel pressure regulator) with only 2,000 miles on them. I discovered that swapping the ignition control module seems to temporarily fix the issue - it starts with a new ICM but dies when I return to the original one.

I'm really concerned about potential highway driving with these intermittent starting problems. Is this a common issue with these 460 engines? …more

Already embarrassed to ask this, but my 2014 Thor Challenger's V10 threw a rod in Florida - is replacing it as wallet-crushing as I think? Because apparently my RV has a sense of humor and perfect timing! 🙄

Now I'm staring down the barrel of an engine replacement and trying not to have my own mechanical failure when I see the potential costs. I've heard Jasper engines mentioned, but I'm honestly clueless about what I should expect to pay for a complete engine replacement on this beast.

Anyone been through this wallet-emptying adventure before? What's the realistic price range I'm looking at, and are there any engine brands or shops I should specifically consider (or run screaming from)? …more