I'm still pretty new to RVing and having some trouble with my 2020 Fleetwood Bounder 33C with the Ford V10 engine. For the past few months, I've been dealing with this really frustrating intermittent starting problem where I turn the key and get dash lights but absolutely no cranking from the starter.
The weird thing is it's not consistent - sometimes it starts right up, other times I'll sit there for 20-30 minutes trying and then suddenly it'll fire right up like nothing was wrong. I've already replaced the ignition switch and even the starter/solenoid thinking that would fix it, but I'm still having the same issue. Battery tests good at 13.4 volts and it doesn't matter if I'm plugged into shore power or running the generator.
I'm kind of at a loss here and don't want to keep throwing parts at it. Could this be something with heat affecting an electrical component since it seems to work after sitting for a while? What should I be looking at next?
Your intermittent no-crank issue is most likely caused by a faulty starter relay, corroded battery connections, or a failing neutral safety switch. Since it eventually starts after 30 minutes, heat cycling is affecting an electrical component.
Wayne, based on your specific symptoms with your 2020 Fleetwood Bounder 33c, you're dealing with an intermittent electrical connection issue in the starting circuit, not a failed component. The fact that you've already replaced both the ignition switch and starter/solenoid but still have the same intermittent problem tells us the issue is elsewhere in the circuit. Since your Ford V10 eventually starts within 30 minutes and you get dash lights but no starter engagement, this points to either a faulty neutral safety switch, corroded connections at the starter relay, or an intermittent break in the starter signal wire between the ignition switch and starter solenoid.
The intermittent nature is the key clue here - if the starter or ignition switch were truly bad, they wouldn't work at all or would fail completely. Your symptoms suggest an electrical connection that's making and breaking contact randomly, which is why jiggling the shifter or waiting sometimes resolves the issue temporarily.
In your 2020 Bounder with the Ford V10, the most common culprit for this exact symptom pattern is the transmission range sensor (TR sensor, formerly called the neutral safety switch). This switch prevents the engine from starting unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral, and it's located on the side of the transmission. After three years and 25,000 miles, these switches can develop internal corrosion or loose connections that cause intermittent operation.
Another frequent cause is corrosion or looseness in the starter relay connections. Your Bounder has the starter relay in the engine compartment fuse box, and Florida's humidity can cause corrosion on the relay terminals over time. The starter signal travels from your ignition switch through this relay before reaching the starter solenoid, so any intermittent connection here would cause exactly your symptoms.
Wiring harness issues are also possible, particularly where the starter signal wire passes through the firewall or connects to the transmission. Vibration from 25,000 miles of driving can cause wire connections to work loose or develop hairline cracks that make intermittent contact.
You'll need a few specific tools to diagnose this properly: a digital multimeter capable of reading 12V DC, a test light or circuit tester, needle-nose pliers, and dielectric grease. Have your owner's manual handy to locate the fuse box diagram - you'll need to identify the starter relay, which is typically a larger relay in the engine compartment fuse box.
Safety-wise, make sure you're parked on level ground with the parking brake set and disconnect the negative battery terminal when removing components, but reconnect it when testing circuits with the key. You'll be working around the transmission and starter area, so wear safety glasses and have good lighting. Keep your multimeter and test light easily accessible since you'll need to test circuits while the problem is occurring.
If possible, try to recreate the problem before starting your diagnosis. Sometimes shifting between Park and Neutral several times, or turning the key multiple times, can help trigger the intermittent condition so you can test it in real-time.
Start by testing the neutral safety switch, which is your most likely culprit. With the engine off, locate the transmission range sensor on the driver's side of the transmission near where the shift linkage connects. You should see a multi-wire connector here. Using your multimeter, check for 12V at the switch connector when the transmission is in Park and key is turned to START position - consult your service manual to identify the correct power input and starter signal output terminals for testing.
Next, check the starter relay in your engine compartment fuse box. Remove the relay (it's usually a larger, cube-shaped relay) and examine the terminals for corrosion. Only swap it with another relay after verifying identical amperage rating and pin configuration in your owner's manual - using an incompatible relay can damage circuits. If the problem disappears temporarily, you've found your issue. Even if swapping helps, clean all the relay socket terminals with electrical contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease.
If those tests don't reveal the problem, you'll need to trace the starter signal wire. With your test light, check for 12V at the small terminal on the starter solenoid when someone turns the key to START. If you have power there but no starter engagement, the issue is in the solenoid itself. If there's no power, work backwards through the circuit checking connections at the neutral safety switch and ignition switch.
Pay special attention to any wire connections that might be affected by engine vibration or heat. Look for green corrosion on terminals, loose connections, or wires that appear stressed or cracked. Clean any corroded connections with electrical contact cleaner and ensure all connections are tight.
If your testing reveals that you're getting proper voltage all the way to the starter solenoid but it's still not engaging consistently, the issue may be internal starter problems that weren't resolved by your replacement. Sometimes remanufactured starters have internal issues right out of the box, and you may need to warranty exchange your recently installed starter.
Complex wiring harness problems, particularly those involving the body control module or PCM communication with the starter circuit, require professional diagnostic equipment. If you're finding intermittent voltage readings that don't make sense, or if the problem seems to be related to other electrical systems, it's time for a qualified RV service center with Ford diagnostic capabilities.
Given that you're in Ocala, Florida, consider taking your Bounder to a Camping World service center or Ford dealership that's familiar with RV chassis work. They'll have the proper diagnostic scanners to check for communication issues between modules and can perform more advanced electrical testing. The repair cost should be reasonable since you've already replaced the major expensive components - most likely you're looking at a $200-400 repair for cleaning connections or replacing the neutral safety switch.
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