Results for "dim headlights"

Pulled out my multimeter on this dead F53 headlight situation and I'm getting 12.4V at the relay when every Ford manual says it should read 12.6V. My 1999 Mountain High Pinnacle Class A with 76,000 miles on a Ford F-53 chassis has me stumped - ALL four headlights (both high and low beams) just went completely dead, but here's the weird part: every single other light works perfectly. Taillights, brake lights, turn signals, markers - they're all fine.

When the headlight switch is on, there are no headlights at all, and the blue high beam indicator remains constantly lit. I noticed a strange clicking sound from under the hood about every 20-25 seconds, which continued even after disconnecting the coach and chassis batteries.

I've already replaced the headlight switch thinking that was the culprit, but the same problem persists. No headlights whatsoever when I flip the switch, whether I'm on high or low beam. I'm starting to think it might be the combination switch or maybe a relay with a potential dead short, but I don't want to start throwing parts at this thing without some guidance.

Has anyone dealt with this exact scenario on a late 90s Ford chassis? What should I be checking first? I really need to get this sorted out before my next trip. …more

After getting quoted $180 to replace my sticky pull switch on my 2001 Monaco Knight dashboard, I'm wondering if I can just convert it myself to two separate toggle switches for the headlights and marker lights instead.

Before I start tearing into the dash wiring, I want to make sure I understand the proper approach for this conversion. I'm particularly concerned about getting the wire connections right and ensuring the new toggle switches can handle the electrical loads properly. The current pull switch seems to control both lighting circuits, so I assume I'll need to separate those functions when I wire in the individual toggles.

What's the correct procedure for converting from a single pull switch to dual toggle switches for headlights and marker lights? I want to make sure I don't create any electrical issues or damage anything in the process. …more

Apparently replacing the headlight relay, cleaning all ground connections, and checking alternator output means nothing when my 2000 Fleetwood Southwind Ford V-10 still drops to 10.3V under headlight load. The headlights have been consistently dim despite replacing the bulbs. My multimeter readings show 12.5V at the headlight connector when disconnected, but this drops to 10.3V when the headlight is plugged in and operating.

This 2.2V drop under load seems excessive and correlates with the poor light output I'm experiencing. What causes this level of voltage drop in RV headlight circuits, and does this require immediate repair for safety reasons? …more

During every spring prep on my 2005 F53 chassis RV, those damn DRL wires for my LED halo headlights leave me completely stumped again. I've upgraded to LED headlights with built-in halos on my Safari Simba, and I desperately want to connect those halos to work with the existing daytime running light system instead of having the DRLs run through the main headlight beams.

I know there are DRL relays and the parking brake cutout that I need to stay downstream from, but I'm completely lost trying to trace these wires through all the looms and bundles. The headlight uses a standard H4 connector, and the halo has its own separate positive wire that needs 12V when the DRLs should be active.

Can someone please tell me which specific wire at the headlight connector carries the DRL output signal? I really hope there's a straightforward way to tap into this without messing up the existing relay control system! …more

Woke up this morning hoping my 1995 F53 motorhome with the 460 7.5L would run smooth after replacing the ignition control module yesterday, but it's still stalling randomly. It keeps stalling every time I come to a stop - literally dies on me at around 5mph just as I'm braking. The power steering goes out and it's a real struggle to get stopped safely.

I can restart it immediately and it runs fine as long as I keep giving it gas, but this happens at EVERY stop sign and red light. Currently, it won't start at all - just cranks with no spark. I previously had an EGR code 334 that went away after replacing the EVR sensor.

My fuel pressure gauge was showing 30-32 psi at idle and about 40 psi at wide open throttle. When I tested the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, no fuel spilled out and the pressure didn't change.

I've already replaced many parts (including distributor cap, plugs, wires, EGR valve, ICM, fuel pressure regulator) with only 2,000 miles on them. I discovered that swapping the ignition control module seems to temporarily fix the issue - it starts with a new ICM but dies when I return to the original one.

I'm really concerned about potential highway driving with these intermittent starting problems. Is this a common issue with these 460 engines? …more

Replaced all the clearance lights on my 2002 Bounder 39Z Diesel with LEDs yesterday but something still doesn't seem right — they work perfectly with the clearance light switch but shut off completely when I turn on the headlights. But the moment I turn on the headlights, every single LED clearance light goes dark! This is driving me crazy - the old incandescent bulbs never did this.

I've checked the fuses, swapped out different LED bulbs, and even tested the voltage at the fixtures. Everything seems fine until those headlights come on. I'm really hoping someone has seen this before because I'm running out of ideas. What could cause brand new LED clearance lights to shut off only when the headlights activate? …more