Results for "crimp rings"

According to my screaming every morning, there's this scalding burn followed by an icy shock sensation hitting my back in my RV shower. There's no middle ground - it's like my water heater has anger management issues.

I'm shopping for a thermostatic mixing valve to save myself from daily temperature shock therapy. I keep seeing mechanical models like the Symmons Temptrol and Phoenix PF213200, but honestly have no idea if they're any good. And don't get me started on those fancy digital ones like the Kohler DTV+ - they look amazing but I'm guessing they're about as RV-friendly as a pet elephant.

Anyone know which thermostatic valves actually work well in RVs without requiring me to rewire half my rig or sacrifice my firstborn to the plumbing gods? …more

Got what's probably a dumb question, but why do I have like three different types of PEX fittings in my RV and which ones should I actually be using for repairs? The current setup has what I believe are crimp rings on the PEX lines, but I'm seeing different types of fittings available and I'm confused about which approach is best for a DIY repair.

I've been looking at compression fittings, push-to-connect options like SharkBite, and traditional crimp rings, but I'm not sure which system actually works with RV PEX plumbing. Some of my connections are also threaded at the water pump and manifold areas, and I keep seeing references to FIP connections but I'm not entirely clear on what that means in the context of RV plumbing.

What's the difference between these connection types for RV PEX systems, and which option would be easiest for someone doing their own plumbing repairs? I want to make sure I'm using the right fittings and tools before I start tearing into my water system. …more

Turned on my water pump this morning and there's that unmistakable musty smell wafting from behind the fridge where my 1999 Class A's leaking Dometic 10-gallon water heater sits. I've got the mounting bolts out and can wiggle it a bit, but can't pull it far enough to get at the water and propane connections on the back.

Really hoping I don't have to yank the entire refrigerator just to swap this thing out! I'm thinking maybe I could disconnect the propane line from the front and push it through, but those water lines are probably gonna be the real problem. Has anyone figured out a way to get these units out without the massive headache of fridge removal? Maybe working from the exterior compartment somehow? …more

Despite everyone saying I need a DC-DC charger for my lithium RV batteries, I'm skeptical about dropping $400 — will it actually protect my alternator? Just got a shiny new 2026 F250 (after my poor F150 basically begged for mercy when I hooked up my 2600RB) and had a 230ah lithium battery installed in the trailer. Now I'm reading horror stories about truck alternators and lithium batteries having some kind of electrical death match that could fry my alternator or damage the battery.

I keep seeing mentions of DC-DC chargers but honestly have no idea if I actually need one or if this is just RV paranoia at its finest. The trailer has solar and I've only got a 12V fridge drawing power when towing, so it's not like I'm running a mobile data center back there. Can I just use my truck's existing charge line to the trailer, or am I about to become another cautionary tale about expensive electrical mistakes? …more