Results for "compressor fridge"

Three weeks into owning this RV and the previous owner left me with a power-hungry Norcold 3-way absorption fridge that's absolutely demolishing my 600AH battery bank daily.

I keep hearing people rave about switching to 12V compressor fridges like the Dometic DMC4101, claiming they'll solve all my power woes. But here's the thing - everyone says "it uses way less power" but nobody gives me actual numbers! I need the cold hard facts: exactly how much power will I save making this switch? Will it really make that big of a difference, or am I just trading one expensive problem for another?

Please tell me someone has real-world experience with the power consumption difference between these fridge types! …more

The freezer in my 2024 Jayco Eagle's Everchill 12V fridge works perfectly, but I'm tackling the non-cooling fridge section this Saturday — what should I check first? The Everchill 12V four-door refrigerator/freezer unit has developed what seems to be a common problem - the freezer compartment is working perfectly and maintaining proper temperatures, but the refrigerator section has completely stopped cooling.

I've verified that the internal fan is running normally, so it's not a power issue. The unit gets power, the controls light up, and I can hear it cycling on and off as expected. However, despite the fan running and the freezer working fine, the fridge compartment just won't get cold anymore. This seems like it happened suddenly rather than gradually losing cooling capacity.

I've read online that this is a known issue with these Everchill units, but I'm not sure what specifically causes the freezer to work while the fridge fails. What are the most likely culprits when you have this exact symptom pattern, and what should I check first to diagnose whether it's something I can fix myself or if I need to call for warranty service? …more

According to the moisture buildup around my residential fridge door seals after just two weeks of storage, I'm clearly doing something wrong.

With my old propane fridge, I religiously propped that door open during storage like every RV manual commanded. But now that I've got this "house fridge" - do I treat it like a regular home refrigerator and keep it closed, or do I stick with my old RV habits and prop it open? I'm probably overthinking this, but the last thing I want is to open it up next season and get knocked over by some horrific smell that could wake the dead. What's the right move here for preventing mold and keeping things fresh during long-term storage? …more

Standing in my 2016 Itasca Navion 24G, I discovered the previous owner left me with a completely shot Norcold N3150 refrigerator. The fridge is struggling big time in hot weather, with temperature swings up to 50-60F, and I'm tired of playing refrigerator roulette every trip. I'm running 200W of solar and 2 Golf Cart 6V batteries, and I do a lot of driving through Southern California deserts where temperatures hit 110F.

Been doing some research and keep seeing two main options - the NovaKool RFU6406D with dual compressors, or sticking with absorption and going with something like the Norcold N2175. I'm particularly interested in a setup that'll keep things cold when it's scorching outside and provide reliable cooling performance.

What's the real-world difference between these two approaches, and which one's gonna give me better performance in those extreme desert heat situations? …more

Replaced my old Dometic RV fridge but now I'm second-guessing whether I should have gone with a residential unit instead of another 12 cu. ft. residential unit - looking at Frigidaire or Whirlpool models. But I keep seeing terrible reviews for small residential fridges in RVs.

What causes these issues with residential fridges in RV applications? Are there better alternatives that give me residential-style features without the problems? Need to know about power requirements and installation considerations too. …more

Already three fire hazard warnings this season from my Norcold 1201LRIM in my 2003 Winnebago Brave 34D and I'm done playing roulette with this recall nightmare. After 22 years, the absorption cooling system is showing signs of corrosion and I'm concerned about continued operation even with safety devices like Fridge Defend.

I've been researching Dutch Aire conversion options to save my existing refrigerator box, and I'm torn between their 120VAC conversion kit and their 12VDC conversion kit. Both options would allow me to keep the same interior space my wife loves while eliminating the problematic absorption system, but I need to understand the practical differences between these two power options.

My RV has both shore power capability and a decent house battery setup, but I'm not sure which conversion would be more reliable and efficient for our typical camping style. What are the key considerations between choosing the 120VAC versus 12VDC Dutch Aire conversion for the Norcold 1201 series, especially regarding power consumption, electrical system requirements, and overall performance? …more

Woke up this morning realizing our new fifth wheel has a 12V refrigerator instead of propane, and we're picking it up next week for our big family camping trip. Over the years with my other RVs, I've always been confident that the house batteries would charge while driving since they're connected to the tow vehicle's charging system through the umbilical cord.

However, I keep reading concerning posts online about 12V refrigerators not staying cold during travel days because they supposedly drain the house batteries faster than the tow vehicle can charge them. This has me puzzled because I've never had charging issues while towing before. If the 12V fridge is running off the same house battery system that gets charged by my truck while driving, shouldn't the charging system be able to keep up with the fridge's power demands?

I'm trying to understand the actual power requirements of these 12V fridges and whether my tow vehicle's charging system through the 7-way connector will realistically be able to maintain the batteries and keep the fridge running properly during long travel days. What kind of amperage draw should I expect from a typical RV 12V refrigerator, and how can I verify that my charging system is working adequately while towing? …more

About 7 years ago leveling fixed my old Dometic's cooling issues — but this Maybe-Cold N8X (Serial 28221668) absorption fridge has me completely stumped. This thing is driving me absolutely crazy! It heats up just fine on both AC and propane - no issues there at all. But the cooling is completely unpredictable. Sometimes it works perfectly, other times it just stops cooling for no apparent reason, even in the middle of the night when temperatures are stable.

I've been tracking temps with data loggers and can see it just randomly stops cooling even though there are no error codes flashing. The thermostat tests good at about 8k ohms at 85°F, which matches what the service manual says it should be. I've got fans helping with air circulation and exhaust ventilation, so I don't think it's an airflow problem.

Before I throw in the towel and replace this entire fridge, what should I be checking? Is this a cooling unit failure, or could it be something with the control board or sensors? I really need to figure out what's actually failing here because this intermittent cooling is making our trips miserable! …more

Despite being on a tight budget and unable to afford professional installation, is there a way to properly fit my Frigidaire FFET1222 in my cramped RV kitchen myself? The manufacturer lists specific dimensions, but I'm worried they might not be completely accurate and I'll end up with a fridge that doesn't fit.

I'm particularly concerned about clearance requirements and whether I need extra space beyond the listed dimensions. Has anyone actually measured one of these units? I really don't want to make an expensive mistake or damage anything during installation. Should I trust the published specs or add extra buffer room? …more