I'm dealing with a frustrating cooling issue in my 2024 Jayco Eagle fifth wheel that's only 6 months old. The Everchill 12V four-door refrigerator/freezer unit has developed what seems to be a common problem - the freezer compartment is working perfectly and maintaining proper temperatures, but the refrigerator section has completely stopped cooling.
I've verified that the internal fan is running normally, so it's not a power issue. The unit gets power, the controls light up, and I can hear it cycling on and off as expected. However, despite the fan running and the freezer working fine, the fridge compartment just won't get cold anymore. This seems like it happened suddenly rather than gradually losing cooling capacity.
I've read online that this is a known issue with these Everchill units, but I'm not sure what specifically causes the freezer to work while the fridge fails. What are the most likely culprits when you have this exact symptom pattern, and what should I check first to diagnose whether it's something I can fix myself or if I need to call for warranty service?
When your Everchill 12V refrigerator's freezer works but the fridge compartment doesn't cool, it's typically caused by a faulty damper control, blocked air circulation, or temperature sensor issue. Start by checking the damper door between compartments and verifying proper airflow.
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Your Everchill 12V French door refrigerator is experiencing a classic dual-zone cooling failure where the freezer compartment maintains proper temperature but the fresh food section has stopped cooling. Since you mentioned the fan is working and this is in your 6-month-old Jayco Eagle fifth wheel, you're likely dealing with either a failed damper door that controls airflow between compartments, or a blocked air pathway that's preventing cold air from circulating to the refrigerator section. This is indeed a common issue with these Everchill units, particularly in the French door 4-door models where the cooling system relies on proper air circulation between zones.
The fact that your freezer is working perfectly indicates the compressor and main cooling system are functioning correctly. The problem is specifically with the air distribution system that's supposed to move cold air from the freezer compartment down to cool the fresh food section. With the fan running but no cooling in the fridge area, we're looking at a mechanical blockage or control issue rather than a refrigeration system failure.
Everchill refrigerators use a single evaporator system where all cooling originates in the freezer compartment, then cold air is circulated down to the fresh food section through a damper door mechanism. When this damper door fails to open properly or gets stuck in the closed position, the freezer continues to work normally while the refrigerator section loses cooling. This damper is controlled by a thermostatic element that can fail, or the damper itself can become mechanically stuck due to ice buildup or debris.
Another common cause is blocked air vents between the compartments. Food items, ice buildup, or packaging can obstruct the air pathways, preventing proper circulation. The fan you hear running might be the circulation fan in the freezer section, but if the damper isn't opening or air passages are blocked, that cold air never reaches the refrigerator compartment.
In newer units like yours, sometimes the issue stems from a faulty thermistor (temperature sensor) that tells the damper when to open and close. If this sensor fails or gives incorrect readings, the damper may stay closed even when the refrigerator section needs cooling.
Before starting any repairs, unplug the refrigerator and let it defrost completely for at least 4-6 hours - this will eliminate any ice buildup that might be causing blockages. You'll need a flashlight or headlamp, screwdriver set (both Phillips and flathead), needle-nose pliers, and a multimeter if you have one. Have some towels ready for any water from defrosting, and take photos of wire connections before disconnecting anything.
Remove all food from both compartments and take out any removable shelves, drawers, and covers to give yourself clear access to the air vents and damper mechanism. Look for the air vents that should be visible between the freezer and refrigerator sections - these are typically located at the back wall or top of the fresh food compartment.
Check your owner's manual for the specific location of the damper door on your model, as it varies slightly between different Everchill configurations. Have your phone ready to document any part numbers you find, as you may need to order replacement components.
Start by locating the damper door assembly, which is usually behind a removable panel at the back of the fresh food compartment or in the ceiling area where the compartments connect. Remove the panel screws and carefully pull out the cover to expose the damper mechanism. Warning: Be careful of sharp metal edges and avoid damaging any refrigerant lines when removing panels. Check if the damper door is stuck in the closed position - it should move freely when you gently push on it with your finger.
If the damper appears stuck, clean around the edges with a damp cloth to remove any debris or frost buildup. Test the damper motor by using a multimeter to check for voltage at the motor connections when the temperature control calls for cooling, or have a helper adjust the temperature control while you listen for operation from a safe distance - you should hear a subtle clicking or humming when the damper attempts to open. If there's no sound, the damper motor has likely failed and needs replacement (part typically costs $40-80).
Next, trace the air pathway from the freezer to the refrigerator section. Look for any obstructions in the air ducts or vents. Use your flashlight to check for ice buildup, food particles, or damaged ductwork that could block airflow. Clear any visible obstructions carefully with a soft brush or cloth.
If the damper moves freely and air pathways are clear, test the thermistor by checking its resistance with a multimeter. The thermistor should show specific resistance values that correlate with temperature (see manufacturer specifications for your model's resistance chart). A faulty thermistor (usually costs $25-40) will need replacement to restore proper temperature sensing and damper control.
If you've verified the damper operates correctly and air pathways are clear but the refrigerator section still won't cool, the issue may be with the main control board that manages the dual-zone operation. This control board replacement typically costs $150-250 and requires specific programming for your model, making it a job for a qualified RV technician.
Since your Jayco Eagle is only 6 months old, this repair should definitely be covered under warranty. Contact your Jayco dealer immediately before attempting any major repairs, as DIY work might void your warranty coverage. Document the issue with photos and keep records of the symptoms for your warranty claim.
Problems with the sealed refrigeration system itself (compressor, evaporator, or refrigerant lines) are also beyond DIY repair and require EPA-certified technicians due to refrigerant handling requirements. If you hear unusual noises from the compressor area, notice refrigerant leaks, or the freezer also stops working, stop using the unit and contact a professional RV refrigeration service immediately.
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