Results for "battery tray"

Group 31 AGM battery weighs 75 pounds and sits in the worst possible spot on my F53 chassis — wedged behind the step well with about 4 inches of clearance above it. Last time I changed it I nearly threw out my back. There has to be a safer way to swap these heavy batteries. …more

Turned on my water pump this morning and there's that unmistakable musty smell wafting from behind the fridge where my 1999 Class A's leaking Dometic 10-gallon water heater sits. I've got the mounting bolts out and can wiggle it a bit, but can't pull it far enough to get at the water and propane connections on the back.

Really hoping I don't have to yank the entire refrigerator just to swap this thing out! I'm thinking maybe I could disconnect the propane line from the front and push it through, but those water lines are probably gonna be the real problem. Has anyone figured out a way to get these units out without the massive headache of fridge removal? Maybe working from the exterior compartment somehow? …more

My 1999 Monaco LaPalma's front run bay control panel #166-2011 had something completely new on it this morning that wasn't there yesterday. I have a 1999 Monaco LaPalma on an F53 chassis, and the front run bay control panel has stopped working completely. From what I can tell, the part number I need is #166-2011.

I've been searching online but I'm not having much luck finding this specific control panel. Are these parts still available anywhere, or am I out of luck since it's such an older unit? Also, is there anything special I should know about compatibility or installation for my particular chassis? Any advice would be really appreciated! …more

Called my buddy who had the same battery woes on his Class C — second deep cycle fixed him right up, but this BT Cruiser's tiny compartment has me completely stumped. Currently running one Interstate 27M deep cycle battery (88AH) but need more capacity so I don't have to fire up the generator constantly. Problem is my battery compartment is tiny - only fits 12"x15" tray with 11" height clearance. Looking at either two 6V Duracell GC2s, or single Redodo LiFePO4 batteries (140AH or 165AH in group 31 size). My converter is WFCO WF-8955PEC with 14.4V bulk, 13.6V absorption, 13.2V float charging. Will this converter work properly with these battery options, and which would you recommend for under $700? …more

Already embarrassed to ask this, but my 2014 Thor Challenger's V10 threw a rod in Florida - is replacing it as wallet-crushing as I think? Because apparently my RV has a sense of humor and perfect timing! 🙄

Now I'm staring down the barrel of an engine replacement and trying not to have my own mechanical failure when I see the potential costs. I've heard Jasper engines mentioned, but I'm honestly clueless about what I should expect to pay for a complete engine replacement on this beast.

Anyone been through this wallet-emptying adventure before? What's the realistic price range I'm looking at, and are there any engine brands or shops I should specifically consider (or run screaming from)? …more

Opened my Palazzo's door this morning to a faint electrical buzzing sound coming from the dash area, and now the battery keeps draining overnight. My 2014 Palazzo passed its state inspection yesterday, but when I stopped for gas right after, the engine wouldn't crank. I had to use my house battery boost to get it going. The whole inspection only took about 25 minutes, so I'm confused how that could drain my chassis batteries. When I got home, I put everything on shore power and the batteries charged up in under an hour. I load tested my 4-year-old chassis batteries today and they're showing good. I also checked the engine ground and got 0.5 ohms. I'm worried about getting stranded somewhere and really don't want to pay dealer prices if this is something I can figure out myself. What else should I be checking? Could there be a parasitic draw I'm missing? …more