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Atwood GC10A-4E Replacement: Best Tankless RV Water Heater Upgrades 20
Propane Hard 6-8 hours 149 👍

Atwood GC10A-4E Replacement: Best Tankless RV Water Heater Upgrades 20

Halfway through draining my Atwood GC10A-4E's supposed 10-gallon capacity, the water's already running cold but my gauge shows I've only pulled maybe 6 gallons. Are there any dual-fuel tankless units that would work as a replacement? I know there's no plug-and-play option, but what are the best tankless water heaters that offer both gas and electric operation for RVs? …more
RV Water Heater Not Hot Enough: Fix Lukewarm Water Issues
Appliances Medium 2-4 hours 112 👍

RV Water Heater Not Hot Enough: Fix Lukewarm Water Issues

Looked forward to our two-week cross-country trip starting tomorrow until I discovered my RV water heater that used to produce scalding hot water now barely gets lukewarm. Both the electric and gas functions appear to be working - I can hear the gas igniting and see the electric indicator light - but the water temperature just won't get hot enough for a decent shower.

I've been dealing with this for weeks now and it's driving me crazy. The water gets warm, but nowhere near the hot temperatures I used to get. Is this a common problem with RV water heaters? What are the most likely culprits when you're getting lukewarm water instead of hot? I really need to figure out what's causing this and how to fix it before my next camping trip. …more
Atwood GC6AA-10E Replacement Guide: Compatible Water Heaters & Installation Tips
Plumbing Medium 3-4 hours 88 👍

Atwood GC6AA-10E Replacement Guide: Compatible Water Heaters & Installation Tips

Atwood GC6AA-10E water heater finally died after 18 years and I need a direct replacement that'll bolt right into the same cutout without modifications. Every RV parts site shows different "compatible" models and I'm not confident any of them actually fit. What drops right in? …more
RV Water Heater Popping Noise: Causes & How to Fix
Appliances Medium 90 minutes 82 👍

RV Water Heater Popping Noise: Causes & How to Fix

I found myself replacing the heating element, flushing the tank, checking every connection — but my RV water heater still makes these loud popping and crackling noises whenever it's heating up. It's got me a bit worried since I'm not sure what's normal and what isn't with these systems.

Is this something I should be concerned about? Could it be dangerous or cause damage if I don't address it? I've heard people mention draining water heaters but I'm not really sure when that's necessary or how to tell if that's what mine needs. Any guidance would be really appreciated! …more
Suburban SW6P Water Heater Tank Replacement: Why You Need a Complete Unit
Propane Hard 4-6 hours 81 👍

Suburban SW6P Water Heater Tank Replacement: Why You Need a Complete Unit

Planning what I thought would be a simple fix for minor rust in my Suburban SW6P pilot light water heater, but now metal chunks pour out every flush. The rust is definitely coming from inside the tank.

Before I go dropping cash on a whole new unit, I'm wondering - is it possible to just swap out the tank itself? Like, can I buy just the tank part and keep my existing housing and all the fittings? And if so, where the heck would I even find a replacement tank for this thing?

Really hoping I don't have to replace the entire water heater, but I'm not sure what my options are here. Anyone dealt with this before? …more
How to Add Electric Element to RV Water Heater While Keeping Anode Rod Intact
Propane Medium 2-3 hours 79 👍

How to Add Electric Element to RV Water Heater While Keeping Anode Rod Intact

Three tools deep into this project and I'm determined to add electric capability to my Suburban water heater with cast iron tank myself — where's the best starting point? Problem is, most conversion kits I'm seeing want to replace the anode rod port with the heating element. That seems like a bad idea for a cast iron tank - pretty sure I need that anode rod to keep things from corroding, right?

Anyone know if there are kits out there that let you keep the anode rod? Maybe something that goes in the drain port instead, or one of those combo deals where the element also acts as an anode? Just want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for a rusty mess down the road! …more

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How to Sanitize Your RV Water Tank After Summer Storage - Complete Guide to Cleaning and Maintaining Fresh Water Systems
Plumbing Easy 2-3 hours 78 👍

How to Sanitize Your RV Water Tank After Summer Storage - Complete Guide to Cleaning and Maintaining Fresh Water Systems

About to tackle sanitizing my Winnebago Navion's water tank this Saturday after months of Arizona summer storage — what supplies should I have ready? The fresh water tank was completely drained before storage and has remained empty for approximately 4 months.

Given the extended storage period and the harsh desert conditions with temperatures exceeding 100°F for most of the summer, I need to determine the proper protocol for bringing the water system back online. Is a simple rinse sufficient, or does this situation warrant a full sanitization procedure?

What is the recommended bleach ratio and contact time for sanitizing after this type of extended hot weather storage? I want to ensure the water system is safe for consumption before our next trip. …more
Why RV Water Smells Bad After Storage: Quick Fix Guide
Plumbing Easy 30 minutes each use 77 👍

Why RV Water Smells Bad After Storage: Quick Fix Guide

Pulled the RV out of winter storage and the water smells like rotten eggs the second I turn on any faucet. Hot and cold both reek. Sanitized the tank with bleach before storage but clearly something went wrong over the winter. Need this fixed before our first trip next weekend. …more
How to Remove Dometic 10 Gallon Water Heater from Class A RV (Without
Propane Hard 4-6 hours 77 👍

How to Remove Dometic 10 Gallon Water Heater from Class A RV (Without

Turned on my water pump this morning and there's that unmistakable musty smell wafting from behind the fridge where my 1999 Class A's leaking Dometic 10-gallon water heater sits. I've got the mounting bolts out and can wiggle it a bit, but can't pull it far enough to get at the water and propane connections on the back.

Really hoping I don't have to yank the entire refrigerator just to swap this thing out! I'm thinking maybe I could disconnect the propane line from the front and push it through, but those water lines are probably gonna be the real problem. Has anyone figured out a way to get these units out without the massive headache of fridge removal? Maybe working from the exterior compartment somehow? …more
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