Results for "winnebago era"

Somewhere between our freezing mountain trip last month and now, my 2002 Born Free's SF-30 furnace died completely and I'm torn between replacing the core versus the whole unit. I believe it's a Suburban SF-30 model. I've been doing some research and see there are two options - I can buy a complete furnace replacement or just get a replacement core that supposedly slides into the existing SF-30 housing for about half the price.

I'm honestly not sure which route to go. The cost savings on the core is tempting, but I don't want to make the wrong choice and end up with more problems. As someone who's still learning about RV maintenance, would you recommend getting the complete unit or would the core replacement work just as well? Any guidance would be really appreciated! …more

Apparently this Coleman Mach 10 AC motor replacement is eating through my entire weekend because the new shaft is way too long for my Winnebago Era. The new motor shaft is way too long compared to what I'm seeing in YouTube videos of other Coleman units. The old blower wheel is stuck tight on the original shaft too - thing won't budge!

Anyone dealt with this before? Do I need to trim the shaft somehow, or is there a better way to handle the length issue? And what's the trick for getting that stubborn blower wheel off without wrecking everything? …more

Wondering if anyone's dealt with fading paint, oxidation streaks, AND chalky residue covering their entire RV exterior before trusting Carlos at Reef RV Park? I have a 2004 Winnebago Adventurer and need the storage compartment doors painted on the driver's side (about 2'x28' section). I also have clear coat peeling on my front and rear caps. The quotes I'm getting in the US are absolutely crushing - $5,500 to $6,500 just for the doors!

I've heard about Carlos at The Reef RV Park in Puerto Penasco (WhatsApp: +52-638-105-6894) who does paint work for way less. His initial quote was $1,400, which expanded to $2,500 for additional work including painting front/rear caps and fixing a slideout lip.

Communication can be tricky - it took multiple attempts to connect with him. Reserving at The Reef RV Park was also challenging (pro tip: use Gmail for reservations).

Has anyone actually taken the risk and gotten work done here? I completed the work and was surprisingly pleased. Carlos worked in a basic metal shop with a dirt floor, yet produced impressive, nearly flawless results. While there was a barely noticeable small paint sag, the overall quality exceeded my expectations.

Is this a viable option for RV paint work? In my experience, absolutely yes. …more

Between my multimeter reading 10.2V at the battery and the manual saying my 1995 Winnebago Vectra F53 chassis should show 12.6V, I'm confused why the starter still won't crank. Nothing like being stranded at a campground to remind you that you're living in a 30-year-old house on wheels!

I'm trying to track down proper wiring diagrams to troubleshoot this mess. Should I be looking for Ford F53 chassis diagrams, Winnebago coach wiring, or both? And while I'm at it, any suggestions on what to check first for starter issues? My mechanical skills are about as reliable as my RV's electrical system right now! …more

Woke up ready to tackle my 2004 Ford F53 class A motorhome's wheel replacement — but would this be covered under my extended warranty if I need exact 19.5" wheel specifications? The chassis has 8 lug wheels, not 10. I'm having trouble finding the right replacement wheels that match E450/E550 specifications and want to make sure I get the correct specs before ordering. …more

Finally ready to tackle these electrical gremlins in my 2000 Harney Riata diesel pusher — but would this engine compartment wiring mess be covered under my extended warranty? The power distribution panel mounted on the firewall (driver's side) has several connections that look questionable after sitting in storage all winter.

I can see terminals marked for things like generator start, leveling pump, chassis main, and house 12V power. There's also a Sure Power battery isolator (Model 1322) and what appears to be a 150-amp breaker with a large battery disconnect relay. Some of the connections have corrosion and I want to clean everything up properly before our first trip.

Does anyone have access to factory wiring diagrams or service documentation for this setup? I'm particularly interested in proper fuse ratings and how the isolator should be wired. Any Harney/Winnebago documentation from that era would be incredibly helpful since I want to make sure I don't create bigger problems while fixing the small ones. …more