Results for "truck charging"

Wondering if I can skip the $400 shop diagnosis for my electrical issues and just figure out this battery disconnect switch myself, even though I'm getting conflicting advice.

Specifically, I'm concerned about what happens to things like my LP gas detector, carbon monoxide alarm, and refrigerator when I disconnect the battery. Will I lose all my radio presets and clock settings? Are there certain situations where I absolutely shouldn't use the disconnect switch?

I want to use it for storage to prevent battery drain, but I'm also wondering about daily use scenarios. What are the best practices to avoid any problems or safety issues? I really don't want to mess anything up or put my family at risk. …more

Pulled into my driveway after my local RV dealer closed down last year, and now finding OEM parts for my 2001 Fleetwood Flair 33R has become a complete nightmare. Ford has discontinued so many of the OEM components I need, and the usual RV parts suppliers keep coming up empty. I've been searching for months now and I'm starting to worry I'll never get this thing roadworthy again.

I know there have to be salvage yards out there with Fleetwood parts, but I don't know where to look or how to search effectively. Are there online platforms specifically for RV salvage? How do you even cross-reference parts when the original numbers are discontinued? I'm willing to try anything at this point - used parts, aftermarket alternatives, whatever works. Someone please tell me there's a systematic way to track down these elusive components! …more

Pulled into my favorite boondocking spot with batteries that used to last three days, but now these lead acid units are completely dead after just one night! I've been running two 12V lead acid batteries in my travel trailer and I'm SO tired of dealing with their limitations - slow charging, constant maintenance, and they seem to die at the worst possible times.

I found these Dyness 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 lithium batteries and I'm really hoping they might be the solution I've been looking for. But I'm completely lost when it comes to lithium technology. Will my current converter/charger work with lithium batteries, or am I looking at more upgrades? I keep seeing mentions of something called a BMS - what exactly does that do and why is it important?

I just want a system that actually works reliably and charges properly both when plugged into shore power and while driving. Can someone please tell me if making the switch to these Dyness LiFePO4 batteries is worth it, and what I need to know about compatibility with my existing charging system? …more

Woke up this morning realizing our new fifth wheel has a 12V refrigerator instead of propane, and we're picking it up next week for our big family camping trip. Over the years with my other RVs, I've always been confident that the house batteries would charge while driving since they're connected to the tow vehicle's charging system through the umbilical cord.

However, I keep reading concerning posts online about 12V refrigerators not staying cold during travel days because they supposedly drain the house batteries faster than the tow vehicle can charge them. This has me puzzled because I've never had charging issues while towing before. If the 12V fridge is running off the same house battery system that gets charged by my truck while driving, shouldn't the charging system be able to keep up with the fridge's power demands?

I'm trying to understand the actual power requirements of these 12V fridges and whether my tow vehicle's charging system through the 7-way connector will realistically be able to maintain the batteries and keep the fridge running properly during long travel days. What kind of amperage draw should I expect from a typical RV 12V refrigerator, and how can I verify that my charging system is working adequately while towing? …more

Despite everyone saying I need a DC-DC charger for my lithium RV batteries, I'm skeptical about dropping $400 — will it actually protect my alternator? Just got a shiny new 2026 F250 (after my poor F150 basically begged for mercy when I hooked up my 2600RB) and had a 230ah lithium battery installed in the trailer. Now I'm reading horror stories about truck alternators and lithium batteries having some kind of electrical death match that could fry my alternator or damage the battery.

I keep seeing mentions of DC-DC chargers but honestly have no idea if I actually need one or if this is just RV paranoia at its finest. The trailer has solar and I've only got a 12V fridge drawing power when towing, so it's not like I'm running a mobile data center back there. Can I just use my truck's existing charge line to the trailer, or am I about to become another cautionary tale about expensive electrical mistakes? …more

Apparently replacing the headlight relay, cleaning all ground connections, and checking alternator output means nothing when my 2000 Fleetwood Southwind Ford V-10 still drops to 10.3V under headlight load. The headlights have been consistently dim despite replacing the bulbs. My multimeter readings show 12.5V at the headlight connector when disconnected, but this drops to 10.3V when the headlight is plugged in and operating.

This 2.2V drop under load seems excessive and correlates with the poor light output I'm experiencing. What causes this level of voltage drop in RV headlight circuits, and does this require immediate repair for safety reasons? …more

Despite buying my 2014 Bounder on a 2013 Ford F53 V10 chassis, the previous owner left me with a busted AC expansion valve that's impossible to source. The valve is threaded and standard RV parts suppliers don't seem to carry the right one.

Where can I find commercial-grade AC components for the F53 chassis? Need reliable sources that understand these aren't regular automotive parts. …more

I woke up to the reality that downsizing from our 36-foot Class A motorhome to a smaller 30-foot Class C Forest River Forester means dealing with technical issues I know absolutely nothing about. While we were initially concerned about losing too much living space and storage, we've found the compact layout surprisingly functional for our essential gear and belongings. We're currently pulling our compact SUV behind it using a tow dolly setup. I'm wondering what technical considerations other RVers have encountered when making this type of downsizing transition, particularly regarding weight distribution, towing capacity changes, and any mechanical adjustments needed for the different chassis types. …more

Wondering if I made the right call upgrading to the new 6.7 Cummins gas engine after weeks of research — still feels like I'm missing something important. Imagine if Freightliner built a new chassis using this specific Cummins gas engine. I would think it would be a great option. I don't imagine Ford would willingly use this engine in the F53 chassis. …more

Woke up this morning hoping my 1995 F53 motorhome with the 460 7.5L would run smooth after replacing the ignition control module yesterday, but it's still stalling randomly. It keeps stalling every time I come to a stop - literally dies on me at around 5mph just as I'm braking. The power steering goes out and it's a real struggle to get stopped safely.

I can restart it immediately and it runs fine as long as I keep giving it gas, but this happens at EVERY stop sign and red light. Currently, it won't start at all - just cranks with no spark. I previously had an EGR code 334 that went away after replacing the EVR sensor.

My fuel pressure gauge was showing 30-32 psi at idle and about 40 psi at wide open throttle. When I tested the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, no fuel spilled out and the pressure didn't change.

I've already replaced many parts (including distributor cap, plugs, wires, EGR valve, ICM, fuel pressure regulator) with only 2,000 miles on them. I discovered that swapping the ignition control module seems to temporarily fix the issue - it starts with a new ICM but dies when I return to the original one.

I'm really concerned about potential highway driving with these intermittent starting problems. Is this a common issue with these 460 engines? …more

Looked everywhere online but still trying to decide between a fuel pump issue or ECM problem for my 1989 Ford Tioga 460 EFI that won't start after jumping the dead battery. The RV ran smoothly for weeks until I had to jump-start it after leaving lights on overnight. After the jump, the engine fired but immediately died - completely different behavior than its previous reliable starts.

The engine will only stay running when fuel is manually added to the intake, suggesting a fuel delivery problem. Prior to this incident, the fuel system worked flawlessly. The timing correlation between the dead battery jump-start and the fuel system failure seems significant.

What are the most likely causes when a 460 EFI system loses fuel delivery immediately after a battery jump? Could the jump-start procedure have damaged fuel system components, and what should I check first in the fuel pressure circuit? …more

Apparently my 2001 Fleetwood Discovery has a failing CAT 330 diesel engine, transmission issues, AND electrical problems all hitting at once. Had battery failure and explosion, replaced batteries. Engine runs smooth but CEL still flashing. Code shows SID 253 FMI 2 - voltage/calibration memory related.

Local tech says needs CAT ET software to clear codes. Need mobile CAT technician in eastern North Carolina area. Is this safe to drive or should I wait for service? Any dealer recommendations for mobile CAT service? …more