Results for "city water"

Found out my RV service tech wants $800+ to replace the entire grey water system on my 2007 RV for an intermittent blockage that seems fixable. It doesn't seem to matter if we're level or not - it's completely random.

I've tried using a high suction shop vac and even attempted snaking it, but I'm nervous about forcing things and making the problem worse. I suspect it might be a manufacturing plug that fell into the tank, but I'm not sure. I found one solution with a reverse flush valve that seems to work temporarily, but I'm concerned about the underlying cause.

What are the safest and most proven methods to diagnose and fix these random grey water blockages? I don't want to damage the tank or create bigger problems, but this unpredictable draining is driving me crazy. Are there specific cleaning products or techniques that actually work without risking harm to the system? …more

Last week my pressure regulator started reading a solid 40 PSI on city water but my water pump keeps cycling on for 5-6 seconds when everything says it should stay completely off. When I connect to city water, my water pressure regulator shows a solid 40 PSI, which should be plenty, right? But here's the weird part - my water pump keeps kicking on for about 5-6 seconds then shuts off, even though I'm connected to city water and the pump switch is supposed to be off.

The really frustrating thing is that the pressure feels weak throughout the RV, with specifically the bathroom sink and kitchen sink seeming low, though the shower has good pressure. I've already changed out the intake/check valve and don't currently have a filter in the system. I can see the pump running while on city water, which I know is not normal. I noticed the kitchen and bathroom sink screens were plugged - which might explain some pressure issues - but now I'm wondering about the toilet's low pressure. Could there be a screen in the toilet line I'm not seeing?

I've been full-timing for two years and never had this issue before. What should I be checking for? I'm handy enough to do basic repairs but need to know where to focus my troubleshooting efforts. …more

Got what's probably a dumb question, but why do I have like three different types of PEX fittings in my RV and which ones should I actually be using for repairs? The current setup has what I believe are crimp rings on the PEX lines, but I'm seeing different types of fittings available and I'm confused about which approach is best for a DIY repair.

I've been looking at compression fittings, push-to-connect options like SharkBite, and traditional crimp rings, but I'm not sure which system actually works with RV PEX plumbing. Some of my connections are also threaded at the water pump and manifold areas, and I keep seeing references to FIP connections but I'm not entirely clear on what that means in the context of RV plumbing.

What's the difference between these connection types for RV PEX systems, and which option would be easiest for someone doing their own plumbing repairs? I want to make sure I'm using the right fittings and tools before I start tearing into my water system. …more

Found myself staring at my water pressure gauge right now and there's 60 PSI showing even though my regulator is preset to 50 PSI. This is the first time I've used this particular gauge (bought it about 6 months ago), and it immediately shot up to 60 with no way to adjust it down.

Is 60 PSI going to damage my RV's plumbing system? I'm worried because that seems high, but I'm not sure if it's actually dangerous or just at the upper limit. Could my regulator be failing, or might this new gauge be giving me a bad reading? I'm planning a trip to get a replacement tomorrow, but I want to make sure I'm addressing the right problem here. …more

Our brand new 2025 Flagstaff Super lite's Suburban water heater has this annoying steady drip-drip-drip sound coming from the pressure relief valve on the outside. Been living in this thing since August and just noticed it last week.

The thing is, it's not constant - sometimes it's bone dry, other times I'll see a drop or two. We keep the electric heater running pretty much 24/7. My dealer mentioned something about draining and creating an air pocket, but honestly I'm not sure if this is just normal behavior for a new unit or if I've got a legit problem on my hands.

Anyone know if a little PRV dripping is just part of the deal with these water heaters, or should I be looking at a warranty claim here? Don't want to be that guy complaining about nothing, but also don't want to ignore something that could turn into a bigger issue down the road. …more

Last week's downpour left my 2016 Windsport 35C's city water inlet leaking badly and now I'm stuck replacing the entire unit. I've removed all three mounting screws and cleared away the sealant, but the inlet assembly refuses to pull out from the exterior wall. Other RV repair videos I've watched show the inlet simply pulling straight out once the screws are removed, but mine appears to have a different mounting system.

I'm wondering if there's a threaded connection I'm missing or if I need to rotate the inlet while pulling. What's the proper removal technique for this specific model? Also concerned about the installation process - how do you properly tighten the new inlet from the outside to ensure a leak-free seal without over-torquing? …more

Three days into my RV trip with the kids, my Dometic Sealand Traveler 111 toilet started leaking and making weird gurgling sounds during my 511 upgrade—is this dangerous? Both are low-profile toilets and my current setup has a 4-bolt floor flange.

Will the Traveler 511 bolt directly onto my existing mounting hardware without modifications? I want to confirm the mounting patterns are compatible before ordering the replacement. …more