Results for "auxiliary charging"

Since the manual says to check the fuel shutoff solenoid first on my 1999 Fleetwood Discovery 37V diesel pusher generator, why am I getting power there while the battery connections are completely corroded? The generator absolutely refuses to start unless I run the main Cummins engine for several minutes first, and I've already tried using the boost battery switch which seems to do nothing.

I have brand new batteries - two 12V for the chassis and four 6V house batteries properly wired. Everything else works fine, but this generator issue has me concerned. I want to understand: 1) Why won't the gen set start from its batteries without the main engine running first? 2) Which battery bank does the gen set actually use - chassis, house, or a separate gen set battery?

I'm 80 years old and hesitant to crawl under the coach to trace the gen set 12-volt cable. Can someone help me understand what might be happening with my generator's electrical system? …more

Pulled into my favorite boondocking spot with batteries that used to last three days, but now these lead acid units are completely dead after just one night! I've been running two 12V lead acid batteries in my travel trailer and I'm SO tired of dealing with their limitations - slow charging, constant maintenance, and they seem to die at the worst possible times.

I found these Dyness 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 lithium batteries and I'm really hoping they might be the solution I've been looking for. But I'm completely lost when it comes to lithium technology. Will my current converter/charger work with lithium batteries, or am I looking at more upgrades? I keep seeing mentions of something called a BMS - what exactly does that do and why is it important?

I just want a system that actually works reliably and charges properly both when plugged into shore power and while driving. Can someone please tell me if making the switch to these Dyness LiFePO4 batteries is worth it, and what I need to know about compatibility with my existing charging system? …more

Woke up this morning realizing our new fifth wheel has a 12V refrigerator instead of propane, and we're picking it up next week for our big family camping trip. Over the years with my other RVs, I've always been confident that the house batteries would charge while driving since they're connected to the tow vehicle's charging system through the umbilical cord.

However, I keep reading concerning posts online about 12V refrigerators not staying cold during travel days because they supposedly drain the house batteries faster than the tow vehicle can charge them. This has me puzzled because I've never had charging issues while towing before. If the 12V fridge is running off the same house battery system that gets charged by my truck while driving, shouldn't the charging system be able to keep up with the fridge's power demands?

I'm trying to understand the actual power requirements of these 12V fridges and whether my tow vehicle's charging system through the 7-way connector will realistically be able to maintain the batteries and keep the fridge running properly during long travel days. What kind of amperage draw should I expect from a typical RV 12V refrigerator, and how can I verify that my charging system is working adequately while towing? …more

Between my multimeter reading 10.2V at the battery and the manual saying my 1995 Winnebago Vectra F53 chassis should show 12.6V, I'm confused why the starter still won't crank. Nothing like being stranded at a campground to remind you that you're living in a 30-year-old house on wheels!

I'm trying to track down proper wiring diagrams to troubleshoot this mess. Should I be looking for Ford F53 chassis diagrams, Winnebago coach wiring, or both? And while I'm at it, any suggestions on what to check first for starter issues? My mechanical skills are about as reliable as my RV's electrical system right now! …more

Woke up this morning hoping my 1995 F53 motorhome with the 460 7.5L would run smooth after replacing the ignition control module yesterday, but it's still stalling randomly. It keeps stalling every time I come to a stop - literally dies on me at around 5mph just as I'm braking. The power steering goes out and it's a real struggle to get stopped safely.

I can restart it immediately and it runs fine as long as I keep giving it gas, but this happens at EVERY stop sign and red light. Currently, it won't start at all - just cranks with no spark. I previously had an EGR code 334 that went away after replacing the EVR sensor.

My fuel pressure gauge was showing 30-32 psi at idle and about 40 psi at wide open throttle. When I tested the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, no fuel spilled out and the pressure didn't change.

I've already replaced many parts (including distributor cap, plugs, wires, EGR valve, ICM, fuel pressure regulator) with only 2,000 miles on them. I discovered that swapping the ignition control module seems to temporarily fix the issue - it starts with a new ICM but dies when I return to the original one.

I'm really concerned about potential highway driving with these intermittent starting problems. Is this a common issue with these 460 engines? …more

Standing next to my RV with my kids nearby, I'm worried it's dangerous that the fridge completely loses 12V power every time I start the engine. I've got kids around and I'm worried about electrical issues. Just picked up a 2005 Holiday Rambler Imperial and discovered the fridge has commitment issues - it runs like a dream until I dare to turn the ignition key (not even starting the engine, mind you), then it completely loses 12V power and goes on strike.

The moment I turn the key back off, it's happy as a clam again. I'm pretty sure this isn't normal behavior, unless my fridge has developed some kind of performance anxiety around the ignition system. Something tells me this is related to the battery isolator or relay system, but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction before I start randomly poking at electrical components like some kind of RV repair roulette! …more