Quick Answer
When your RV furnace clicks but won't ignite, the most common causes are a faulty igniter electrode, blocked burner orifice, or malfunctioning sail switch. Start by checking for proper gas flow and inspecting the igniter for damage or buildup.
Tools & Parts Needed
Find these on Amazon: Digital Multimeter , Compressed Air Duster , Wire Brush Set
Recognizing the Signs
If you're experiencing this issue, you're not alone. Here's what's typically happening and how to address it.
What You Might Notice
A clicking RV furnace that won't ignite typically indicates the ignition sequence is starting but failing to complete.
Understanding the Problem
Suburban Furnaces
Suburban models often experience igniter electrode corrosion due to their design. Check the ceramic insulator for cracks and ensure the ground connection is clean.
Atwood Furnaces
Atwood units frequently have sail switch issues. The switch may stick due to dust accumulation or wear out from vibration during travel.
Dometic Furnaces
Dometic furnaces commonly suffer from blocked orifices, especially after extended storage. Spider webs and dust are frequent culprits.
What to Grab
- Multimeter
- Small wire brush or emery cloth
- Compressed air or shop vacuum
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Manometer (for gas pressure testing)
Making It Right
- Check Gas Supply: Ensure your propane tanks have adequate fuel and the main valve is open. Test other propane appliances to confirm gas is reaching the RV.
- Inspect the Igniter: Turn off the propane supply before removing the furnace access panel. Locate the igniter electrode near the burner. Look for cracks, corrosion, or carbon buildup. Clean gently with emery cloth if dirty.
- Check Igniter Gap: Turn off power to the furnace before making adjustments. The electrode should be positioned 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the burner tube. Adjust carefully if needed by bending the mounting bracket.
- Test Igniter Spark: Turn on the furnace with propane supply closed and observe the igniter during the ignition sequence. You should see a strong blue-white spark jumping across the electrode gap. No spark indicates a failed igniter module.
- Examine the Burner Orifice: Look for spider webs, debris, or corrosion blocking the gas orifice. Clean with compressed air - never use wire or sharp objects.
- Check Thermostat Operation: Verify thermostat wiring connections are secure and the unit is calling for heat. Test thermostat operation by bypassing it temporarily with a jumper wire.
- Check the Sail Switch: This small switch proves airflow from the combustion fan. It should click when the fan runs. A stuck or faulty sail switch prevents ignition.
- Test Gas Pressure: Connect a manometer to check for proper gas pressure (typically 11 inches water column). Low pressure prevents reliable ignition.
Beyond DIY Territory
Contact a qualified RV technician if you encounter any of these situations:
- Strong propane odor during troubleshooting
- Cracked heat exchanger or flue pipe
- Control board replacement needed
- Gas pressure regulation issues
- Multiple failed ignition attempts after cleaning
- Electrical problems with 12V power supply
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