No Power to Ignition Switch on 1998 Fleetwood Bounder: Ford Chassis Electrical Troubleshooting Guide

Bottom Line Up Front

Since you've already verified all fuses and relays are good on your 1998 Fleetwood Bounder with Ford chassis, common causes include a corroded or loose main battery cable connection, a faulty ignition switch power feed wire, or a bad connection at the battery disconnect switch if your RV has one. The Ford E-series chassis used in your Bounder has the main power feed running from the battery through a fusible link (usually located in the engine compartment fuse box) before reaching the ignition switch. Start by checking the large red wire connections at the battery positive terminal and follow the power path systematically.

Root Causes

The 1998 Ford chassis in your Bounder uses a fairly straightforward ignition power system, but several components can fail after 25+ years. A common issue is corrosion at the main battery terminals, which can look fine on the surface but have poor conductivity underneath. The battery cables themselves, particularly where they connect to the starter solenoid and alternator, often develop internal corrosion that blocks current flow.

Another frequent culprit is the fusible link in the engine compartment power distribution box. Even though you checked fuses and relays, fusible links can fail without obvious visual signs. These links protect the main ignition circuit and are wire sections of appropriate gauge for their amperage rating that burn out under overcurrent conditions. The ignition switch itself can also develop internal contact problems, though this usually causes intermittent rather than complete power loss.

RV-specific issues include problems with the chassis battery disconnect switch (if equipped) and the house-to-chassis battery charging system. Some Bounder models have a battery isolator or combiner that can fail and interrupt the chassis electrical system. Additionally, the main ground strap from the engine block to the frame can corrode, causing all sorts of electrical gremlins including ignition problems.

Before You Start

WARNING: Disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing any electrical components to prevent accidental shorts. Wear safety glasses when cleaning corroded connections, as battery acid residue can splash. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby when working around the engine compartment, and never smoke or use open flames near the battery area.

You'll need a digital multimeter capable of reading 12-volt DC, a basic hand tool set, electrical contact cleaner, and dielectric grease. Have a friend available to help with testing procedures, as you'll need someone to operate switches while you check voltages. Ensure your RV is parked on level ground with the parking brake set and wheels chocked.

Locate your chassis electrical schematic in your owner's manual or download it from Ford's service information website. The 1998 E-series wiring is well-documented, and having the diagram will help you trace circuits efficiently. Also identify the location of your engine compartment fuse box, main battery connections, and starter solenoid before beginning work.

The Repair Process

Start by performing a voltage drop test on the main battery cables. With your multimeter set to DC volts and the circuit under load (have someone attempt to start the vehicle), connect the positive lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative lead to the positive cable connection at the starter solenoid or fuse box. You should read less than 0.5 volts during the test. If you see more than 0.5 volts, there's excessive resistance in the positive cable path that needs attention.

Next, check the ignition switch power feed at the fuse box. Look for a large red wire (usually 10 or 12 gauge) coming from the battery area into the power distribution box. This wire should show battery voltage (12.6+ volts) at all times. If there's no voltage here, trace the wire back toward the battery, checking connections at the starter solenoid and any junction points along the way.

Remove and clean all battery terminal connections, even if they look clean. Use a wire brush to clean the terminal posts and cable clamps down to bright metal. WARNING: Batteries can produce explosive hydrogen gas - ensure adequate ventilation and avoid sparks when cleaning terminals. Apply a thin coat of dielectric grease before reconnecting. Torque the connections to manufacturer specifications (typically 10-15 ft-lbs for most automotive battery terminals, but verify with your specific battery manufacturer) – they should be tight but not overtightened to the point of cracking the battery case.

Test the fusible links in the power distribution box by checking for continuity across each link with the battery disconnected. A good fusible link will show near-zero resistance, while a blown link will show infinite resistance. Replace any failed links with the correct part for your model (verify with dealer) – typically 30-amp for the ignition circuit on your chassis.

If power reaches the fuse box but not the ignition switch, you'll need to trace the circuit from the fuse box to the switch itself. The ignition switch is typically mounted on the steering column and accessed by removing the lower dash panels. Check for voltage at the switch connector with the key in various positions to isolate whether the problem is in the wiring or the switch mechanism itself.

Professional Help Needed

WARNING: Call a professional if you discover damaged wiring harnesses or if the problem requires removal of the steering column components to access the ignition switch. These repairs often involve supplemental restraint system (airbag) components that require special procedures and tools to service safely. Expect to pay $200-400 for professional ignition switch replacement on your chassis.

Also seek professional help if your testing reveals problems with the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or anti-theft system integration. The 1998 Ford systems have PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) that can cause no-start conditions if the key programming is corrupted or if there's a communication failure between the key transponder and the PCM. This requires factory scan tools and programming procedures that most DIYers don't have access to.

If you suspect problems with the RV house electrical system interfering with chassis operations, an RV technician familiar with battery isolator and inverter-charger systems would be your best bet. These interactions between house and chassis electrical systems can create complex diagnostic scenarios that require specialized knowledge of RV electrical architecture.