RV Heat Pump Electric Heat Not Working: Complete Troubleshooting Guide for RV Owners

Bottom Line Up Front

Since your RV Comfort heat system is only a year old and the propane side still works fine but the electric heating element has completely failed, you're most likely dealing with either a blown fuse/tripped breaker, a failed electric heating element, or a faulty relay/control board issue. The good news is that with the propane side functioning normally, your furnace's fan motor, thermostat, and main control systems are working properly, which narrows down the problem to the electric-specific components. Most electric heating failures in newer RV furnaces have common causes including power supply issues (about 60% of cases) or heating element burnout (about 30% of cases), both of which are relatively straightforward DIY repairs for someone comfortable working with RV electrical systems.

Given that RV Comfort systems typically use standard 12V DC control circuits with 120V AC heating elements, you can systematically troubleshoot this issue starting with the easiest checks first. The electric heating element in these units draws significant amperage (usually 12.5-25 amps), so any loose connections, corroded terminals, or marginal wiring that worked initially may have degraded over the past year of use. Since you mentioned this is a "cheap heat system," it's likely using lower-grade components that are more susceptible to failure, but the trade-off is that replacement parts are generally affordable and readily available.

Root Causes

The most common culprit in your situation is a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker protecting the electric heating circuit. RV Comfort systems typically use a 15-20 amp fuse or breaker for the electric heating element depending on wattage, and these can fail due to power surges, campground electrical issues, or simply age-related fatigue in the fuse holder connections. Many RV owners don't realize that the electric and propane sides of their furnace use completely separate fuses, so the propane side working doesn't guarantee the electric fuse is intact.

Electric heating element failure is another common cause, especially in budget furnace systems. These elements are essentially large resistive coils that convert 120V AC power into heat, and they're subject to thermal cycling stress every time the furnace runs. After a year of use, the repeated heating and cooling can cause the element wire to develop microscopic cracks or break entirely. Budget heating elements often use thinner gauge resistance wire and less robust mounting hardware compared to premium units, making them more susceptible to premature failure.

Control relay problems represent another common failure mode in RV heating systems. The electric heating circuit uses a relay to switch the high-amperage 120V power to the heating element, controlled by the low-voltage thermostat circuit. These relays contain mechanical contacts that can become corroded, pitted, or simply wear out from repeated cycling. In humid environments or areas with temperature extremes, relay contacts can develop oxide buildup that prevents proper electrical contact even when the relay appears to activate.

Wiring connection issues become more prevalent as RV systems age and experience road vibration. Wire nuts can loosen, crimp connections can develop corrosion, and terminal blocks can develop poor contact due to thermal expansion and contraction cycles. The high current draw of electric heating elements makes these connections particularly sensitive to resistance buildup, which can cause voltage drops that prevent the element from heating properly or cause protective devices to trip.

Before You Start

WARNING: This repair involves potentially lethal 120V AC electricity and propane systems. Never work on electrical components while connected to power. Always verify power is completely disconnected before beginning work.

Safety preparation is absolutely critical when working on RV heating systems, as you'll be dealing with both 120V AC power (which can be lethal) and propane systems. Start by turning off the main breaker to your RV at the electrical panel, then unplug from shore power entirely. If your RV has an inverter, turn it off as well to ensure no 120V power is present. If the propane side has been running recently, allow the system to cool completely before beginning work. Furnace compartments can retain heat for 30-45 minutes after operation, and hot surfaces can cause serious burns. Always use a non-contact voltage tester to verify power is disconnected before touching any electrical components.

Gather the essential tools you'll need for systematic troubleshooting: a digital multimeter capable of measuring both AC and DC voltage, a flashlight or headlamp for visibility in tight spaces, and basic hand tools including screwdrivers, wire strippers, and needle-nose pliers. You'll also want to have electrical contact cleaner, dielectric grease, and possibly spare fuses in common RV sizes (15A, 20A, 30A). Having a camera or smartphone handy to document wire connections before disconnecting anything can save significant frustration during reassembly.

Locate your RV's electrical panel and identify the breaker or fuse protecting the heating system - it's typically labeled "Furnace," "Heating," or "HVAC" and usually rated for 15-20 amps. Also locate the furnace's main electrical connection point, which is usually accessible through an exterior compartment panel or interior access panel. RV Comfort systems typically mount the control board and electrical connections in a readily accessible location, but you may need to remove screws or clips to gain full access.

Download or locate your furnace's wiring diagram if possible, as RV Comfort systems usually include a basic schematic on the unit itself or in the installation manual. Understanding the electrical flow from the main panel through the control board to the heating element will help you systematically isolate the problem. If you don't have the manual, most RV Comfort wiring diagrams follow standard conventions with red wires for 12V positive, white/black for 120V AC, and green for ground connections.

The Repair Process

WARNING: Always disconnect all power sources and verify with a voltage tester before working on electrical components. Double-check that power is off before touching any wires or terminals.

Begin your troubleshooting by checking the most likely culprit - the electrical supply to your heating system. With your RV plugged into shore power and the main breaker on, use your multimeter to verify that you have proper 120V AC voltage at the electrical panel breaker or fuse protecting the furnace circuit. You should read between 115-125 volts AC. If the voltage is significantly low (below 110V) or absent entirely, the problem lies upstream in your RV's electrical system rather than the furnace itself. Check for tripped breakers, blown fuses, or loose connections in the main electrical panel.

Next, trace the power from the panel to the furnace itself. Most RV Comfort systems have a junction box or electrical connection point near the furnace unit where the main RV power connects to the furnace wiring. With the power on and the thermostat calling for heat, measure voltage at this connection point. You should see 120V AC on the heating element supply wires when the system is attempting to heat. If voltage is present here but wasn't at the heating element itself, you've identified a wiring issue between the connection point and the element.

Testing the heating element requires careful attention to safety procedures. With power disconnected, remove the heating element from the furnace housing - this usually involves removing 2-4 mounting screws and disconnecting the wire terminals. Using your multimeter set to resistance (ohms), test across the heating element terminals. A functioning heating element should show continuity (typically 10-50 ohms depending on wattage). If the meter reads infinite resistance or open circuit, the heating element has failed and needs replacement. element should show continuity (typically 10-30 ohms resistance), while a failed element will show infinite resistance (open circuit).g element terminals. A good element should show resistance typically between 10-30 ohms depending on wattage rating. An open circuit (infinite resistance) indicates a burned-out element that needs replacement. A very low resistance (under 5 ohms) suggests a partial short that could cause breakers to trip.

If the heating element tests good, focus on the control circuitry that activates the electric heating. Locate the relay that controls the heating element power - it's usually a cube-shaped component with 4-5 terminals mounted on or near the control board. With the thermostat calling for heat, you should hear this relay click when it activates. If there's no click, the problem is in the control circuit leading to the relay coil. If the relay clicks but no power reaches the heating element, the relay contacts have likely failed and need replacement.

Control board issues require more systematic diagnosis but are often identifiable through visual inspection and voltage testing. Look for obvious signs of damage like burned components, corrosion on circuit traces, or loose connections. Many RV Comfort systems use LED indicators on the control board to show system status - consult your manual for the meaning of different LED patterns. A common failure mode is the loss of the 12V DC control power that operates the relays and control circuits, which you can test with your multimeter at the control board's 12V input terminals.

Wire connection problems often develop gradually and can be intermittent, making them challenging to diagnose. Systematically inspect every electrical connection in the heating circuit, looking for signs of corrosion (green/white buildup), loose connections, or burned/discolored terminals. Pay special attention to connections that carry high current, such as the heating element terminals and the main power supply connections. Even connections that appear tight can develop high resistance due to corrosion, so consider disconnecting and cleaning all connections with electrical contact cleaner.

Temperature sensing and safety systems can also prevent electric heating operation even when all power supply components are functional. Most RV furnaces include overheat protection switches that will disable heating if excessive temperatures are detected. These switches can fail in the open position, preventing normal operation even under safe conditions. Locate the thermal switches (usually mounted on or near the heat exchanger) and test them for continuity when the system is cool. Replace any switches that don't show continuity at room temperature.

Professional Help Needed

While many electric heating problems are within the scope of DIY repair, certain situations definitely require professional intervention. If your troubleshooting reveals problems with the main RV electrical panel, such as a failed main breaker or damaged bus bars, this work should be performed by a qualified RV technician or electrician. Similarly, if you discover signs of electrical arcing or burning in the main electrical connections, stop work immediately and consult a professional, as these conditions can pose fire hazards.

Gas valve or combustion system problems require professional service even though your issue is with the electric side. If during your troubleshooting you notice any unusual odors, sounds, or visible damage to the gas components, shut off the propane supply and seek professional help. Many states require licensed technicians to work on RV propane systems, and attempting repairs without proper training can create serious safety hazards. Additionally, if your RV is still under warranty, attempting repairs yourself might void warranty coverage for related components.

Control board replacement often falls into a gray area between DIY and professional repair. While the physical replacement is usually straightforward, many modern RV Comfort systems require programming or calibration procedures that need specialized equipment or software. If your diagnosis points to control board failure, contact RV Comfort or an authorized dealer to determine if programming is required for your specific model. Some boards are plug-and-play replacements, while others need configuration for proper operation.

Persistent intermittent problems that you can't reproduce consistently often require professional diagnostic equipment and experience. If your electric heating works sometimes but fails unpredictably, the problem might involve complex interactions between multiple systems or subtle issues like voltage fluctuations that are difficult to detect with basic tools. Professional RV technicians have specialized diagnostic equipment and experience with common failure patterns that can identify these elusive problems more efficiently than trial-and-error troubleshooting.