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RV Propane Furnace Clicks But Won't Light - Fix Guide

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Propane guide

RV furnace just clicks but won't fire up - what's wrong?

My RV's propane furnace is driving me nuts! When I flip it on, I hear it clicking away like it's trying to ignite, but no flames ever show up. The clicking goes on for a bit then just stops, and I'm left shivering in my rig.

I've got propane in the tanks and other appliances work fine, so I don't think it's a supply issue. But maybe I'm wrong? Could this be the igniter going bad, or is there something else I should check first before calling a repair shop?

Dear Mike R.,

Quick Answer

When your RV propane furnace clicks but won't light, it's usually caused by a dirty or failing igniter, blocked air intake, low propane pressure, or faulty control board. Most issues can be resolved by cleaning the igniter, checking propane supply, and ensuring proper airflow.

Tools & Parts Needed

screwdriver set compressed air multimeter flashlight soft brush

Find these on Amazon: RV Furnace Igniter Electrode , Propane Leak Detector Solution , Compressed Air Duster

Quick Answer

When your Class A RV propane furnace clicks but won't ignite, you're hearing the igniter sparking but the gas isn't lighting. Common causes include issues with the igniter assembly, propane flow, air intake blockage, or control board problems. The clicking sound confirms your furnace is trying to start, which narrows down the troubleshooting significantly.

What You'll Need

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide

  1. Safety First: Turn off the furnace at the thermostat and shut off propane at the tank. Wait 10 minutes before beginning work to allow any accumulated gas to dissipate. WARNING: Never work on propane systems near ignition sources or if you smell gas.
  2. Remove the furnace cover: Most Class A furnaces (Suburban, Dometic, Atwood) have an interior access panel. Remove screws and carefully set aside the cover.
  3. Inspect the igniter: Look for the small electrode near the burner assembly. Check for corrosion, carbon buildup, or physical damage. The gap between the igniter and ground varies by manufacturer - check your owner's manual for the correct specification as this gap is critical for proper ignition.
  4. Clean the igniter assembly: Use compressed air to blow away debris. Gently brush the igniter with a soft brush if needed. WARNING: Never use sandpaper or abrasives as this can damage the electrode.
  5. Check propane supply: Before beginning any furnace work, test other propane appliances (stove, water heater) to verify adequate propane supply. If they work normally, propane supply likely isn't the issue. If they're sluggish or won't light, you may have low tank pressure or regulator problems that should be addressed first.
  6. Examine air intake and exhaust: Go outside and check the furnace intake and exhaust vents for blockages like leaves, debris, or snow. Even partial blockages can prevent proper ignition.
  7. Verify electrical operation: Before testing spark, confirm the thermostat is calling for heat and the furnace is receiving 12V power. Then with propane still off, turn on the thermostat and observe the igniter. You should see a strong blue spark. A weak yellow spark indicates igniter replacement is needed.

Most Common Causes

Dirty or Failed Igniter (60% of cases): The igniter electrode gets coated with carbon and corrosion over time, weakening the spark. This is especially common in furnaces over 3-4 years old or those used frequently.

Blocked Air Intake (25% of cases): Class A RVs often park under trees or in dusty areas. Leaves, dirt, or even spider webs in the external vents can prevent proper air circulation needed for combustion.

Propane Pressure Issues (10% of cases): Low tank levels, faulty regulators, or kinked lines can reduce gas pressure below the threshold needed for ignition, even though other appliances might still work.

Control Board Problems (5% of cases): The furnace control board manages the ignition sequence. If it's not sending proper signals or timing is off, you'll get clicking without ignition.

Brand-Specific Notes

Suburban Furnaces: Known for robust igniters but prone to air intake blockages due to lower-mounted vents. Check the sail switch (airflow proving switch) for proper operation.

Dometic Furnaces: Often have more sensitive control boards. If cleaning doesn't work, the control module may need replacement.

Atwood Furnaces: Typically have easily accessible igniters, but the electrode gap is critical - too wide or narrow prevents reliable ignition.

When to Call a Professional

Contact an RV service technician if you encounter:

WARNING: Never attempt repairs if you smell gas or suspect a propane leak. This requires immediate professional attention.

Prevention Tips

Regular maintenance prevents most ignition failures:

Keep spare igniters on hand - they're inexpensive insurance against breakdown in remote locations. Most RV supply stores carry universal igniters that work across brands.

Remember that furnace problems often worsen in cold weather when you need heat most. Address clicking issues promptly rather than hoping they'll resolve themselves. A well-maintained propane furnace should light reliably within 15-20 seconds of thermostat activation before safety lockout occurs.

This article is for informational purposes only and may contain errors. Always verify technical specifications and safety procedures with your equipment manufacturer's documentation or consult a qualified professional before performing repairs. See our terms.
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Tags: #furnace repair #ignition problems #propane troubleshooting #suburban furnace #dometic furnace