How to Safely Use Multiple RV Campground Pedestal Outlets: Electrical

Bottom Line Up Front

Using the 20A or 30A outlets on the same pedestal while your 50A is connected to your toyhauler is generally safe and perfectly acceptable. These are separate circuits on the pedestal, so you won't overload your RV's electrical system. However, an electric tankless water heater for your residential washer/dryer setup will likely need significant power - most require 15-30 amps at 240V, which means the pedestal's 30A outlet would be your best option if it provides 240V (verify the specific pedestal configuration as this varies by campground). The 20A 110V outlet won't have enough power for most tankless units designed for laundry applications.

Root Causes

Your concern about using multiple outlets often stems from common misunderstandings about how RV pedestals work. The 50A, 30A, and 20A outlets are completely separate circuits fed from different breakers in the pedestal's electrical panel. When you plug into the 50A service, you're only using that circuit - the others remain available for additional use.

The real limitation comes from the tankless water heater's power requirements. Most electric tankless units suitable for supplying hot water to a washer need between 10-30 amps at 240V to provide adequate flow rates and temperature rise. A typical pedestal's 20A outlet provides only 110V, which severely limits your tankless heater options. The 30A outlet might provide 240V (this varies by campground), making it more suitable for your application.

Another consideration is that many campgrounds have rules about what can be plugged into pedestal outlets. While most allow small appliances on the 20A outlet, some may have restrictions on high-draw appliances like water heaters on auxiliary outlets.

Before You Start

WARNING: Verify what voltage the pedestal's 30A outlet provides before selecting equipment. You'll need a multimeter or voltage tester to check if it's 120V or 240V. Most modern pedestals provide 240V on the 30A outlet, but older ones may only provide 120V. This information is crucial for selecting the right tankless water heater.

Research electric tankless water heaters specifically designed for point-of-use applications. Look for units rated for 120V if using the 20A outlet, or 240V units if the 30A outlet provides that voltage. Brands like Rheem, EcoSmart, and Stiebel Eltron make compact units suitable for RV applications. Expect to spend $200-600 for a suitable unit.

Check your campground's rules about auxiliary appliances. Call ahead or check their website for policies on using additional outlets for water heaters or other high-draw appliances. Some parks are strict about this, while others are more lenient.

Consider the installation location in your toyhauler garage. The tankless unit should be mounted close to your washer to minimize heat loss in the lines. You'll need proper electrical connections and possibly additional circuit protection depending on the unit you choose.

The Repair Process

Start by selecting the appropriate tankless water heater based on your pedestal's available power. For a 20A 110V outlet, look for units specifically designed for 120V operation - verify manufacturer specs for power requirements as many popular models like the Rheem RTE 9 require 240V - verify manufacturer specs for power requirements. For a 30A 240V outlet, you have more options - check manufacturer specs as units like the EcoSmart ECO 27 may exceed 30A capacity. Consider the Stiebel Eltron Tempra series or other units rated for 30A or less.

ELECTRICAL SAFETY WARNING: Install a dedicated electrical connection from your chosen pedestal outlet to the tankless unit location. This requires running appropriately sized wire - typically 12 AWG for 20A circuits or 10 AWG for 30A circuits. Install GFCI protection and a disconnect switch near the water heater as required by electrical codes. Ensure proper grounding and bonding of the tankless unit per NEC requirements. Keep the run from pedestal to your garage as short as possible - runs over 25-50 feet may require larger wire gauge to prevent voltage drop that could impair tankless heater performance.

Mount the tankless unit according to manufacturer instructions, typically on a wall near your washer location. Connect the cold water supply line and hot water output line using appropriate fittings. Most units require 3/4-inch connections for adequate flow rates. Install shut-off valves on both water lines for service access.

Test the complete system by connecting to the pedestal outlet and running your washer through a hot water cycle. Monitor the water temperature and flow rate to ensure the unit is providing adequate performance. Performance will vary significantly based on power available - expect limited temperature rise and flow rates with pedestal power constraints. Check manufacturer specifications for performance at your available amperage. Verify all connections are secure and the system operates safely before regular use.

Professional Help Needed

ELECTRICAL CODE WARNING: Consult with a licensed electrician if you're uncomfortable running new electrical circuits or making connections to pedestal power. Improper wiring can create safety hazards, violate campground rules, and may not comply with local electrical codes. Professional installation typically costs $300-500 but ensures code compliance and safety.

Consider hiring an RV technician familiar with auxiliary systems if your installation involves complex plumbing modifications or integration with existing water systems. They can ensure proper pressure regulation and backflow prevention, which may be required by some campgrounds.

If campground management has concerns about your setup, involve their maintenance staff in the planning process. Some parks require inspection of auxiliary electrical connections before allowing their use. Getting their approval upfront prevents potential conflicts during your stay.