Braun RV Lift Stops Halfway & Loses Power: Troubleshooting Guide

Quick Take

Your Braun lift stopping halfway down with complete power loss to the operating button is most likely caused by an overheating relay or thermal breaker that's protecting the system from damage. Since you've found that manually operating the hydraulic system restores power, this confirms the electrical components are temporarily shutting down to prevent motor burnout. This is a common issue on older Braun lifts, especially when the hydraulic fluid is thick, the system needs bleeding, or there's excessive load on the motor during the down cycle.

Common Causes

Common causes include the thermal overload relay which cuts power when the motor draws too much current. This typically happens when old hydraulic fluid creates extra resistance, air in the lines causes the pump to work harder, or worn seals create internal leakage that makes the motor strain.

Voltage drop issues can also trigger this problem - corroded connections at the battery, loose ground wires, or an aging control module can cause the system to interpret low voltage as a fault condition. Check system voltage at the motor terminals during operation; voltage should remain above 11.5 volts under load. Since your church shuttle likely sits for periods, battery and connection issues are especially common.

Internal hydraulic problems like a partially stuck down valve or debris in the hydraulic cylinder can create enough back-pressure to trip the thermal protection. The fact that manual hydraulic operation restores function suggests the electrical protection system is working as designed.

Preparation

SAFETY WARNING: Hydraulic systems operate under high pressure and can cause serious injury from fluid spray or burns. Always relieve system pressure before disconnecting any components and wear safety glasses when working near hydraulic connections.

Start by locating your lift's control box, usually mounted under the vehicle near the lift mechanism or inside the rear compartment. You'll need a multimeter, basic hand tools, and potentially new hydraulic fluid (use the correct fluid for your model - verify with dealer or manual).

Check your owner's manual for the thermal relay location - it's typically a small rectangular component with a reset button. Have someone available to help test the lift operation safely, and ensure you have wheel chocks and the parking brake engaged.

Gather cleaning supplies for electrical connections including dielectric grease and wire brushes. If you need to check hydraulic fluid, locate the reservoir and have a clean funnel ready.

Repair Steps

Begin by checking all electrical connections starting at the battery and working toward the lift control box. Look for corrosion, loose terminals, or damaged wiring. Clean any corroded connections with a wire brush and apply dielectric grease.

Locate the thermal overload device in your control box - this may be a circuit breaker with a toggle switch, a thermal switch with a reset button, or a motor overload protector. For circuit breakers, toggle off then on; for thermal switches or overload protectors, press the reset button firmly and test the lift operation. If this solves the problem temporarily but it recurs, the relay may need replacement (use correct part for your model - verify with dealer).

Check your hydraulic fluid level and condition. Dark, thick, or contaminated fluid should be replaced. If the fluid level is low, this could cause the pump to cavitate and draw excessive current. Bleed the system according to your manual - this typically involves: 1) Relieving system pressure, 2) Filling reservoir to proper level, 3) Running lift through 5-10 full up/down cycles while checking for smooth operation and topping off fluid as needed. Always ensure pressure is relieved before opening any hydraulic connections.

Test the lift operation using a clamp meter around only the positive battery cable (single conductor) or single motor lead to safely measure current draw during the down cycle without breaking the circuit. Typical Braun lift motors draw 15-25 amps during normal down cycle operation, but consult your specific model's service manual for exact specifications; if you're seeing excessive amperage (typically 30+ amps), there's likely a hydraulic restriction causing the motor to work too hard.

If the problem persists, the issue may be internal hydraulic valve sticking or the control module itself failing. **SAFETY WARNING: Before operating the manual release valve, ensure the lift platform is properly supported or blocked to prevent crushing hazards.** Try operating the manual release valve while the lift is stopped halfway - if it drops freely, the problem is electrical rather than hydraulic.

When to Get Help

Call a Braun-certified technician if you're uncomfortable working with hydraulic systems or if the current draw testing shows normal amperage but the thermal protection still trips. This indicates a failing control module or complex internal hydraulic issues that require specialized diagnostic equipment.

Professional help is also needed if you discover hydraulic leaks, damaged cylinders, or if the manual hydraulic operation doesn't restore electrical function. These issues often require special tools and genuine Braun parts that can cost $200-800 depending on the component.

Since this is a church vehicle, consider that improper repairs could create liability issues. If your troubleshooting doesn't resolve the problem within a few attempts, professional service ensures proper documentation and warranty coverage for any replaced components.