RV Water Pump Pulsing & Cycling Issues: 7 Causes + DIY Solutions

Tools & Parts Needed

Find these on Amazon: RV Water Pump Accumulator Tank , RV Water System Pressure Gauge , Quick Connect Fittings Repair Kit

What's Going On

If you're reading this, you've probably noticed something's not right. When your RV water pump rapidly cycles on and off without any faucets open, it's trying to maintain system pressure but failing to hold it. The most common culprits are a failed accumulator tank (which has lost its air charge), small leaks in the plumbing system, or a faulty pressure switch. Start by checking your accumulator tank and then systematically inspect for leaks.

What's Going Wrong

Failed Accumulator Tank: This is the most likely culprit. The accumulator tank uses compressed air and a rubber bladder to maintain steady water pressure and reduce pump cycling. When the bladder ruptures or loses its air charge, the pump must run constantly to maintain pressure.

Small System Leaks: Even tiny leaks that you can't see will cause pressure loss. Common leak points include toilet fill valves, faucet stems, water heater relief valves, and pipe fittings that have loosened due to road vibration.

Dirty Pressure Switch: The pressure switch contacts can become corroded or dirty, causing erratic operation. Road dust and moisture are common causes in RV applications.

Worn Pump Components: Older pumps may have worn internal valves or diaphragms that don't seal properly, preventing the system from holding pressure.

Getting Ready

Before diving in, gather these items: Safety Note: Always relieve water system pressure by opening faucets before working on any fittings or connections to prevent injury from high-pressure water spray.

• Tire pressure gauge
• Air compressor or hand pump
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Paper towels or rags
• Basic tools (screwdriver, wrench set)
• Teflon tape
• Food coloring (for leak detection)

Walking Through the Fix

Here's how to tackle this:

1. Check the Accumulator Tank: Turn off your water pump and depressurize the system by opening a faucet until water stops flowing, then locate the accumulator tank (usually a small cylindrical tank near the pump). Remove the plastic cap on the air valve and press the valve stem - if water comes out instead of air, the internal bladder has failed and needs replacement. If air comes out, check pressure with a tire gauge - it should read 2-4 PSI above your pump's cut-in pressure (typically 22-27 PSI for a 20 PSI cut-in).
2. Test System for Leaks: Turn the pump back on and let it build pressure, then turn it off. Listen carefully throughout your RV for the sound of dripping or running water. Check all faucets, toilet, shower, and exterior connections. Add a few drops of food coloring to toilet tanks to help identify slow leaks.
3. Inspect Faucet Aerators and Valve Seats: Remove aerators from all faucets and check for debris. A small piece of dirt can prevent complete closure. Also check that all faucet handles are fully closed and valve seats aren't worn.
4. Check the Pressure Switch: Located on or near the pump, this switch should click on around 20-25 PSI and off around 40-45 PSI. If it's cycling too frequently, the switch contacts may be dirty or the spring tension incorrect.
5. Examine All Connections: Look for loose fittings, cracked pipes, or wet spots around the water heater, under sinks, and behind the toilet. Pay special attention to quick-connect fittings which can develop slow leaks.
6. Test the Check Valve: Some pumps have built-in check valves that prevent backflow. If this valve is stuck open or damaged, the pump will cycle continuously trying to maintain pressure.

Beyond DIY Territory

Contact an RV service technician if you find major leaks in hard-to-reach areas, if the pump itself appears to be failing internally, or if you're uncomfortable working with pressurized systems. Always shut off 12V power to the pump before performing any electrical work on the pressure switch. If you discover leaks in the fresh water tank or main supply lines that require removing cabinetry or flooring, professional repair is recommended.