I'm really worried I've damaged something permanently. My 1990 Pinnacle 30' Class A has been sitting for over 24 years since I parked it with what seemed like grabbing brakes. Now it's sunk into the ground and I can't even get underneath to try disconnecting anything.
I'm afraid to force anything or use the wrong approach - could I make the brake problem worse? What's typically wrong after this many years of sitting, and is there any safe way to try releasing stuck emergency brakes myself? I'm concerned about what other brake components might need attention before this RV could ever be roadworthy again.
Brakes stuck after 24+ years are rusted cables and drums. May release with penetrating oil and working cables. Complete brake system service required before road use - cables, drums, shoes, and likely wheel cylinders all need inspection or replacement.
Your 1990 Pinnacle 30' Class A motorhome most likely has a mechanical parking brake system, not hydraulic. The grabbing sensation you experienced in 2000 and the fact that your RV is now "sinking lower in the ground" over 20+ years suggests your emergency brake is stuck in the engaged position, possibly with seized brake shoes or corroded cables. The sinking indicates potential suspension issues that have developed over time, making access underneath even more difficult. You'll need to address both the stuck brake system and likely get the RV lifted or leveled before you can properly access the brake components underneath.
In a 1990 Class A motorhome, the parking brake system is likely mechanical, though some units may have air brake systems, using cables that connect to brake shoes on the rear axle. After sitting unused for over two decades in Alaska's harsh climate, several things have likely gone wrong. The brake cables have probably corroded and seized in the engaged position, which explains why you felt the brakes grabbing when you parked it. Moisture, salt from winter road treatments, and temperature cycles have likely caused the brake shoes to rust to the drums, essentially welding them in place.
The "sinking" you're describing commonly includes a combination of issues. Your air suspension system (if equipped) may have leaked down completely, or your leaf springs and shocks have deteriorated over time. Additionally, if the tires have been sitting in one position for 20+ years, they've probably developed flat spots or gone completely flat, contributing to the lower stance. The combination of seized brakes and suspension problems creates a compounding issue where you can't move the RV to access the brake components, and you can't access the brakes to free them up so you can move the RV.
SAFETY WARNING: Before attempting any work, you need to establish whether your RV can be safely supported. Check if the tires are holding any air - if they're completely flat or rotted, the RV's weight is resting on the rims and potentially the axles. Never attempt to work under a vehicle supported only by compromised tires or suspension components. You'll need proper jack stands rated appropriately for your RV's weight - verify the exact weight rating requirements with your dealer or manufacturer specifications, as most 1990 30' Class A motorhomes have GVWR between 12,000-16,000 pounds.
Gather the necessary tools: penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench), basic hand tools, heavy-duty hydraulic jacks or professional lifting equipment, appropriately rated jack stands, wheel chocks, and potentially a come-along or winch. You may also need to rent or borrow equipment to lift the RV high enough to work underneath. Contact local RV service centers to see if they have mobile service or if you can arrange to have the RV towed to their facility. Given the age and condition, professional evaluation might be the safest first step.
First determine if your RV has mechanical or air brakes - check for air pressure gauges on the dashboard. For mechanical systems, try to locate the parking brake cable release from inside the RV cabin. On most 1990 Class A motorhomes, there's a manual release lever or handle near the driver's area. Pull this firmly to see if it will release the brake tension - though after 20+ years, this may not work due to corrosion. If you can access the area under the driver's seat or dashboard, look for the cable mechanism and try spraying it liberally with penetrating oil.
If you can safely get the RV lifted and supported (this may require professional help), locate the emergency brake cables running to the rear axle. These will be steel cables in protective housings, leading to brake actuating mechanisms on the rear wheels. Spray all connections and moving parts with penetrating oil and let it soak for several hours or overnight. You may need to disconnect the cables at the axle end if they're completely seized, which typically involves removing cotter pins and clevis pins at the brake shoe actuators.
For the brake drums themselves, if they're seized to the shoes, you'll need to remove the wheels and drums. This often requires significant force and may need a drum puller tool. Once you get the drums off, you'll likely find heavily corroded brake shoes that need complete replacement. The entire brake system - shoes, hardware, cables, and adjusters - will probably need rebuilding after sitting unused for over two decades in Alaska's climate.
Address the suspension issues simultaneously. If you have air suspension, check all air lines and bags for leaks. Air bags may need replacement after 33+ years. For conventional suspension, inspect leaf springs for breakage and shocks for leakage. The suspension work may need to be done before or in conjunction with the brake repair to get the RV at a proper working height.
Given the complexity of your situation - a 30+ year old RV with multiple seized systems that's been sitting for decades - this is likely beyond a DIY repair unless you have significant mechanical experience and proper equipment. The combination of needing to lift a heavy RV safely, dealing with completely corroded brake systems, and potentially rebuilding suspension components requires specialized tools and knowledge. Contact RV service centers in your area to discuss mobile service or towing options.
Expect significant costs: brake system rebuild could run $800-1,500, suspension repairs $500-2,000, and towing to a shop might cost $300-800 depending on distance and complexity. Some shops may be willing to come to your location with portable lifts if the RV can't be moved safely. Before spending money on major repairs, have a professional assess whether the RV's overall condition justifies the investment, as other systems (engine, transmission, electrical) may also need attention after sitting unused for so long. A thorough evaluation by a qualified RV technician can help you determine the most cost-effective approach to getting your motorhome back in service or whether the accumulated issues make restoration impractical.
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