How to Fix Intermittent Cruise Control on Damon Daybreak F53 Chassis -

The Quick Answer

SAFETY WARNING: Always disconnect the battery before working with any electrical systems to prevent short circuits and potential injury.

Yes, you can and should remove that red wire from the brake controller that's spliced into your 2009 Damon Daybreak's steering column wire. The fact that jiggling the brake controller wiring makes your cruise control work intermittently is a dead giveaway that this aftermarket installation is interfering with your cruise control system. The F53 chassis uses a dedicated cruise control circuit that runs through the steering column, and that splice is likely causing voltage drops or signal interference that prevents the cruise from engaging properly.

What's Causing This

Your cruise control problem likely stems from an improper aftermarket brake controller installation. The previous owner spliced the brake controller's power wire into what's likely the cruise control's power or signal wire in the steering column. When you press the cruise "on" and "set" buttons, the system isn't getting the proper voltage or signal it needs to engage because of this unauthorized connection.

The F53 chassis cruise control system operates on a 12-volt switched circuit that activates when you turn on the cruise. This circuit needs clean, uninterrupted power to function correctly. The brake controller splice creates a voltage drop and potentially draws current that the cruise control module interprets as a fault condition. That's why manipulating the brake controller temporarily restores function - you're momentarily improving the electrical connection.

Ford F53 chassis typically run the cruise control power through a yellow wire in the steering column harness, and this is probably what got tapped into. The cruise control module is very sensitive to voltage variations, which explains why your dash indicator light doesn't illuminate and the system won't engage when the connection is compromised. (Note: Refer to the manufacturer's wiring guide for your specific chassis to verify wire colors and locations.)

Tools You'll Need

For this repair, you'll need basic electrical tools that most RV owners should have on hand. Gather wire strippers, electrical tape, and heat shrink tubing or wire nuts for making proper connections. You'll also want a multimeter to test voltages and ensure you're working on the right wires.

Additional tools include a flashlight or headlamp for working under the dash, a small flat-head screwdriver for removing steering column covers, and possibly a panel removal tool if the covers are held by clips. Have some electrical contact cleaner and fine sandpaper available in case you need to clean corroded connections.

If you decide to properly relocate the brake controller power source, you'll need a fuse tap or add-a-circuit device, an appropriately rated fuse (verify with dealer), and enough wire of appropriate gauge (see manufacturer specifications) to reach from the fuse box to the brake controller location. This ensures the brake controller gets its power from an appropriate source rather than stealing it from the cruise control circuit.

Step-by-Step Fix

SAFETY WARNING: Always disconnect your RV's battery before working with electrical connections to prevent short circuits, sparks, and potential injury. Ensure the engine is off and keys are removed from the ignition.

Start by disconnecting your RV's battery to ensure safety while working with electrical connections. Remove the steering column covers to access the wiring area where the brake controller splice was made. You should be able to see where the red wire from the brake controller connects to the factory wiring harness.

Carefully cut the brake controller's red wire at the splice point, leaving enough wire length to work with for future proper installation. Cap or insulate the cut end with electrical tape or a wire nut to prevent shorts. Remove any tape or wire nuts, and inspect the factory wire that was tapped into. If the wire insulation was damaged during the splice, you'll need to cut out the damaged section and splice in a short piece of matching gauge wire using proper crimp connectors and heat shrink tubing.

Test your cruise control system before reassembling everything. Reconnect the battery, start the engine, and try engaging cruise control at appropriate speeds according to manufacturer guidelines in a safe area. The dash indicator should illuminate when you press "on," and the system should engage when you press "set." If it works properly, you've confirmed the brake controller splice was the culprit.

For the brake controller, run a new power wire directly from the fuse box to avoid future issues. Use the RV's main fuse panel under the dash and connect to an appropriately rated switched circuit using a fuse tap. This gives the brake controller clean, dedicated power without interfering with other systems. Route the wire safely away from moving parts and secure it with zip ties along the way.

When to Call a Pro

Call a professional RV technician or auto electrician if you discover extensive damage to the steering column wiring harness or if multiple wires were spliced together in a confusing mess. Complex wiring problems can cascade into other system failures, and incorrect repairs might disable your turn signals, horn, or other steering column functions.

You should also seek professional help if the cruise control still doesn't work after removing the brake controller splice. This could indicate that the improper wiring caused damage to the cruise control module itself, which may require replacement on an F53 chassis. Additionally, if you're not comfortable working with automotive electrical systems or can't safely access the steering column area, it's better to let a pro handle both the repair and the proper brake controller installation.

Consider professional installation if you want the brake controller relocated to a more convenient position or if your RV lacks proper pre-wiring for trailer brakes. A qualified technician can install the controller correctly with proper mounting, wiring, and integration with your existing electrical systems, ensuring everything works safely and reliably for years to come. The brake controller power wire should be connected to a proper switched power source in the fuse panel, not spliced into steering column circuits.