Thetford Aurora Toilet Replacement Guide: Best RV Toilet Upgrades 2024

The Rundown

given your situation as a full-timer with recurring seal issues on your Aurora toilet, upgrading to a newer model makes perfect sense, especially since you've already dealt with seal replacement twice in less than a year. The Thetford Aria Classic you're considering is indeed the premium option with its vitreous china bowl, but let me give you the straight scoop on how it stacks up against the more budget-friendly alternatives for your specific needs as a full-timer.

The Aria Classic runs around $450-550 depending on where you shop, and yes, that's steep compared to the plastic alternatives that range from $180-280. However, as a full-timer, you're looking at this toilet getting heavy daily use for years, not just weekend camping trips. The china bowl in the Classic is significantly more durable, stain-resistant, and easier to clean than plastic alternatives. More importantly for your situation, the Classic features Thetford's improved seal design that addresses many of the chronic leaking issues found in older Aurora models.

If budget is a major concern, the Thetford Aqua Magic V series offers a middle ground at around $280-320. It still uses plastic, but the newer models have much better seal reliability than your current Aurora. The Aqua Magic Style II is the budget option at $180-220, but frankly, for full-time use, I'd steer you away from this unless money is extremely tight. The build quality just isn't there for daily use over multiple years.

Your recurring seal problems with the Aurora are unfortunately common with that particular model series. The original Aurora design has a known weakness in the blade seal assembly that tends to warp and fail prematurely, especially with frequent use. Since you're already on your second seal replacement in under a year, you're likely to keep facing this same issue regardless of how carefully you maintain it.

Why It Happens

The persistent seal leaking in your Aurora toilet stems from several design flaws that Thetford has since addressed in newer models. The Aurora's blade seal sits in a groove that's slightly too shallow, causing uneven pressure distribution when the toilet closes. Over time, this uneven pressure creates permanent deformation in the seal material, leading to gaps that allow waste and water to seep past.

The problem is compounded by the Aurora's flush valve mechanism, which creates more turbulence during flushing than newer designs. This turbulence puts additional stress on the seal edges, accelerating wear patterns. As a full-timer, your toilet sees 8-10 flushes per day compared to maybe 20-30 flushes total on a weekend camping toilet. This constant cycling exposes the seal weakness much faster.

Temperature fluctuations also play a role, especially if you're traveling between different climate zones. The Aurora's seal material is more sensitive to thermal expansion and contraction than the newer compounds used in current models. The seal contracts in cold weather, creating tiny gaps, then expands in heat, but often doesn't return to its original shape perfectly. After several thermal cycles, permanent deformation occurs.

Additionally, the Aurora's mounting system allows for slight movement of the toilet base during use, which puts lateral stress on the seal. This movement is barely perceptible but creates a rocking motion that works the seal loose over time. Newer models like the Aria Classic have a more robust mounting system that eliminates this micro-movement.

Gather These Items

Before you start shopping for your replacement toilet, you'll need to measure your current installation to ensure proper fit. Grab a tape measure and check your specific toilet's mounting dimensions and clearances - RV toilets use different mounting systems than residential toilets and don't follow standard rough-in measurements. You'll also want to measure the height from floor to the top of your existing toilet to ensure the new one fits comfortably in your bathroom space.

For the actual replacement, you'll need a few basic tools and supplies. A adjustable wrench or socket set will handle the floor bolts and water supply connection. Pick up a new rubber gasket seal - get the proper RV version as it compensates for any slight irregularities in your floor. You'll also want thread sealant tape for the water connections.

Consider ordering a toilet mounting hardware kit, especially if your current bolts show any corrosion. The kit typically runs $15-20 and includes new floor bolts, washers, and nuts. Many RVers discover their existing hardware is corroded or stripped when they remove the old toilet, so having replacements on hand saves a trip to the hardware store.

If you're going with the Aria Classic, order it directly from a camping supply retailer rather than general plumbing suppliers. The RV-specific version has the correct rough-in dimensions and includes the proper mounting hardware. Some retailers offer installation kits that include everything you need for the swap, which can save you time hunting down individual components.

The Fix

Start your toilet replacement by shutting off the water supply to your current toilet and flushing it completely to empty the bowl and tank. Disconnect the water supply line at the toilet base - there's usually a shut-off valve right at the connection point. Have a towel handy as some water will spill when you break this connection. Remove the decorative caps from the floor bolts and unscrew the nuts holding the toilet to the floor. The toilet should lift straight up once these connections are removed.

With the old toilet out, you'll see the floor flange where the toilet mounts. Clean this area thoroughly, scraping off any old gasket residue completely. Inspect the flange for cracks or damage - if you find any, now's the time to make repairs before installing the new toilet. The flange should sit level with or slightly above your finished floor surface for proper sealing.

Install your new rubber gasket on the floor flange, not on the toilet base. The gasket should center perfectly on the flange opening. Position your new toilet carefully over the flange, aligning the bolt holes with the floor bolts. Lower the toilet straight down - don't twist or rock it as this can deform the rubber gasket. Press down firmly and evenly to compress the gasket and create a proper seal.

Thread the nuts onto the floor bolts and tighten them gradually, alternating between bolts to ensure even pressure. Don't overtighten as this can crack the toilet base - snug them down until the toilet doesn't rock, then just a bit more. Reconnect your water supply line, turn the water back on, and test for leaks at all connection points. Fill the toilet tank and test the flush operation several times to ensure everything works properly.

If you're installing an Aria Classic, pay special attention to the flush mechanism adjustment. These toilets have a more precise flush valve that may need minor adjustment to optimize performance in your specific installation. The adjustment is typically a simple screw or lever that controls how much water releases per flush. Start with the factory setting and adjust if needed after a few days of use.

Know Your Limits

Most DIY RVers can handle toilet replacement successfully, but there are a few situations where you should consider professional help. If your floor flange is cracked or sits significantly below floor level, you may need flange repair or replacement, which can involve cutting into your RV's floor structure. This type of repair requires specific knowledge of RV construction and waterproofing techniques that go beyond basic DIY skills.

Water supply issues can also complicate the job. If your water connections show signs of corrosion or damage, consider having a qualified RV technician assess the situation before proceeding. If you're not comfortable with plumbing work, consider consulting a professional. Current supply line is old or the shut-off valve doesn't work properly, you might need to trace the plumbing back to make repairs. RV plumbing can be tricky to access, often requiring removal of interior panels or cabinetry to reach connections. If you discover supply line problems during your toilet removal, that's when you should call in a mobile RV tech.

Consider your physical limitations as well. RV toilets are awkward to maneuver in tight bathroom spaces, and the new Aria Classic weighs considerably more than your current plastic Aurora. If you have back problems or the bathroom space is particularly cramped, the few hundred dollars for professional installation might be worth avoiding potential injury.

For your specific situation as a full-timer, I'd lean toward the Aria Classic despite the higher cost. The superior build quality, china bowl durability, and improved seal design will save you money and aggravation over the long term. The $200-300 difference in initial cost will be offset by not having to replace seals repeatedly or deal with ongoing maintenance issues. Plus, the china bowl will look and perform like new for years with proper care, while plastic alternatives tend to stain and scratch over time with heavy use.