After 13 years of storing my RV on concrete in Wisconsin, I'm evaluating a gravel storage facility for the first time. While considering this location's storage options, I want to mitigate potential issues with weed growth and moisture retention under the RV.
I'm seeking advice on effective strategies for storing on a gravel surface that shows significant weed penetration and moisture retention. Initial ideas include pre-treatment herbicide application and installing a protective barrier, but I want input from experienced RV owners.
My primary concerns are preventing undercarriage damage and managing moisture/vegetation growth. I plan to spray weed killer beforehand and potentially lay down a weed barrier, pending facility approval. What techniques or materials do you recommend to protect my RV during storage?
Your concerns about gravel storage are valid - moisture retention and weed growth can cause issues. Weed barrier fabric under your RV is a better solution than tarps, combined with proper drainage and regular maintenance.
Yes, you can successfully store your RV on gravel for years without major issues, but you'll need to take proactive steps to manage moisture and vegetation. Your instinct about weed killer and barriers is spot-on - these are essential for protecting your RV's undercarriage and preventing long-term moisture damage. After 13 years of concrete storage in Wisconsin, the transition to gravel requires some preparation, but it's definitely manageable with the right approach. The key is creating a moisture barrier system and maintaining clear vegetation zones around your RV.
Gravel storage presents several challenges that concrete doesn't. First, gravel can retain moisture longer than concrete when water pools between the stones, especially in areas with inadequate slope or compacted surfaces. This creates a constantly humid environment under your RV that can accelerate rust on your frame, suspension components, and any exposed metal. Wisconsin's freeze-thaw cycles make this worse as trapped moisture expands and contracts.
Weed growth is the second major concern. Vegetation growing up through gravel creates several problems: it traps even more moisture against your RV's underside, provides pathways for insects and rodents, and can actually grow tall enough to damage slide seals, awning mechanisms, or electrical connections. The roots can also shift gravel, creating uneven surfaces that stress your stabilizer jacks.
Poor lot maintenance compounds both issues. Uneven gravel creates low spots where water pools, and inadequate drainage means that moisture stays trapped much longer than it should. This combination creates the perfect environment for both vegetation growth and accelerated corrosion of your RV's components.
Before moving your RV to the gravel lot, walk the entire storage area and document any existing drainage issues, low spots, or areas with excessive vegetation. Take photos of the proposed parking spot from multiple angles - you'll want to reference these later. Check with the storage facility about their policies on ground treatments, tarps, and weed barriers. Some facilities prohibit modifications while others encourage them.
Gather your materials in advance: commercial-grade landscape fabric or heavy-duty tarp (at least 6-mil thickness), non-selective herbicide like glyphosate, gravel or crushed stone for leveling if needed, and landscape staples or weights to secure fabric. Always call 811 or check with facility management about underground utilities before driving stakes or doing site preparation. You'll also want a pump sprayer for herbicide application, basic tools for site preparation, and proper PPE including gloves, eye protection, and long sleeves when handling herbicides.
Plan your timing carefully. Ideally, treat the area 2-3 weeks before moving your RV to allow the herbicide to fully work and any dead vegetation to decompose. Wisconsin's growing season means you'll want to do this work in late fall or early spring for best results. Avoid wet periods when herbicide won't be as effective.
Start by thoroughly spraying the entire parking area plus a 3-foot perimeter with a non-selective herbicide. Focus extra attention on areas where weeds are already established - they may need a second application. Allow 2-3 weeks for the herbicide to work, then remove all dead vegetation by raking or using a leaf blower. This step is crucial because dead plant matter will decompose and create moisture pockets under your barrier.
Next, level any obvious low spots or high points in the gravel. Add crushed stone to fill low spots and rake existing gravel to create as level a surface as possible. Light compaction may be needed for stability, but avoid over-compacting which can impede drainage. This isn't about precision - just eliminating spots where water will obviously pool. Pay special attention to where your tires and stabilizer jacks will sit, as uneven surfaces here will stress your RV's frame over time.
Install your moisture barrier by laying landscape fabric or heavy-duty tarp over the entire area where your RV will sit, plus at least 2 feet beyond on all sides. Ensure the barrier is installed with proper drainage by creating a slight slope away from the RV's center and use non-perforated landscape fabric or solid tarp to create an effective moisture barrier. Overlap seams by at least 12 inches and secure with landscape staples every 3-4 feet along the edges. If using a tarp, choose one with reinforced edges and grommets for better durability. The barrier should extend well beyond your RV's footprint to prevent vegetation from growing up around the sides.
Once your RV is positioned, create a maintenance schedule. Inspect the area monthly during growing season, looking for any vegetation poking through or around the barrier. Spot-treat with herbicide as needed, and check that the barrier remains securely fastened. In Wisconsin, plan to reapply herbicide around the perimeter each spring before weeds start growing.
Consider hiring a professional landscaper or site preparation contractor if the gravel lot has significant drainage issues or extremely uneven surfaces. They can properly grade the area and install French drains if water pooling is severe. This typically costs $500-1500 but can prevent thousands in RV damage over time. Professional grading also ensures your RV won't develop stress cracks from sitting unevenly.
If you discover existing damage to your RV's undercarriage during the inspection process - rust, corroded brake lines, or damaged electrical connections - address these with a qualified RV technician before parking on gravel. The increased moisture exposure will accelerate any existing corrosion problems. Budget $200-800 for undercarriage treatments or repairs depending on what's found.
For complex drainage solutions or if the storage facility requires professional installation of barriers, contact a commercial landscaping company experienced with RV storage facilities. They'll understand local regulations and can install permanent solutions like geotextile fabrics with proper drainage that will last for years. This investment typically pays for itself by preventing moisture damage to your RV's expensive components.
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