Well, here I am living my best RV life... flat on my back in a truck stop parking lot, staring at what I think is a wheel simulator that's laughing at me. I need to check my rear tire pressure, but this thing is stuck tighter than my budget after buying this money pit on wheels.
I can see two nuts at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions that look like they've seen some action (one's even got a split down the side - yay, previous owner "repairs"). They budge just slightly when I try to loosen them, but won't come off even with my impact wrench. My brilliant brain is now wondering: should I just pry this simulator off, or do I really need to get those stubborn nuts loose first? Because knowing my luck with RV repairs, I'm about to turn a simple tire pressure check into a $500 mistake!
Simulators mount with separate bolts at 9 and 3 oclock positions. Do not pry - loosen those nuts first. If damaged, use penetrating oil and vice-grips. Consider valve stem extenders for easier future pressure checks.
Yes, those wheel simulators need to come off to access your inner tire valve stems. Those nuts at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions are the correct removal points - don't pry on the simulator itself. The fact that they're budging slightly with your Milwaukee impact on setting #2 means you're on the right track, but you'll likely need more aggressive torque. The split appearance and indents you're seeing are normal wear from previous removals, so don't worry about damaging something that's already been worked on.
Wheel simulators (also called wheel covers or beauty rings) are designed to cover the actual steel wheel and lug nuts on many RV applications, giving a cleaner chrome or polished appearance. On dual rear wheel setups, these simulators completely block access to the inner tire's valve stem, which is exactly your situation. The two nuts you've identified at 9 and 3 o'clock are indeed the correct attachment points - these are typically 3/4" or 13/16" nuts that thread onto studs welded to the back of the simulator.
The wear marks and slight splitting you're seeing are completely normal. These simulators get removed periodically for tire service, and the aluminum or pot metal they're made from is relatively soft compared to steel tools. The fact that your impact wrench is getting some movement means the threads aren't seized - they're just tight from road vibration and possibly some corrosion buildup.
Never attempt to pry these off from the outer edge, as you'll crack or bend the simulator. The mounting system is designed around those two nuts, and forcing removal any other way will result in expensive replacement parts.
Start by spraying both nuts generously with penetrating oil and let it soak for at least 15-20 minutes. This will help break down any corrosion or road grime that's making removal difficult. While it's soaking, verify you're using the correct socket size - it should fit snugly without any play.
After the penetrating oil has had time to work, switch your Milwaukee impact to a higher setting. These nuts can be quite tight from road vibration and the thread-locking effect of accumulated debris. Apply steady pressure and work in short bursts rather than one continuous pull. If you feel the nut starting to move, maintain steady continuous pressure - backing off can cause binding and make removal more difficult.
If the impact wrench still won't break them loose, try a manual approach with a large breaker bar and socket. Sometimes the controlled force of a breaker bar works better than impact action, especially if the threads are partially corroded. Position yourself safely and apply steady, increasing pressure. Once you get initial movement, they should come off relatively easily.
Clean the threads on both the nuts and the studs with a wire brush before reinstalling. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to prevent future seizing. When reinstalling, snug them firmly by hand first, then use your impact wrench on a lower setting to finish. Over-tightening can strip the relatively soft threads in the simulator.
If you're still unable to remove the nuts after trying penetrating oil and maximum impact wrench settings, it's time to call a tire shop or mobile RV service. Continuing to force stuck hardware can result in broken studs welded to the simulator, stripped threads, or cracked wheel simulators - any of which will cost significantly more than a service call.
Professional shops have access to larger pneumatic impact wrenches (typically 1/2" drive with high torque output) that generate much more torque than your handheld unit. They also have experience with the specific techniques needed for stubborn wheel simulators and can usually remove them without damage. Most tire shops charge $20-40 for simulator removal as part of tire service.
Additionally, if this is your first time dealing with inner dual tire access, having a professional show you the process can be valuable for future maintenance. They can also inspect the condition of your simulators and advise if replacement is needed before you find yourself stranded with a damaged cover that won't stay attached.
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