Need to replace tie rod ends on my 99 Pace Arrow F53 chassis. What's the correct procedure for removal and installation? Do I need special tools, and what about alignment afterward? Want to make sure I do this right the first time.
Tie rod end replacement requires puller and alignment afterward. Count turns when removing to approximate position. Always verify with alignment.
Your 1999 Pace Arrow on the Ford F53 chassis has different left and right inner tie rod ends, and they are not interchangeable despite looking nearly identical. The key difference lies in the threading - the right side typically uses right-hand threads while the left side uses left-hand threads. This is a critical safety feature that prevents the tie rod assemblies from loosening during normal operation due to wheel forces and vibration. Installing the wrong side could result in the tie rod end backing itself out while driving, which would be catastrophic for steering control.
The reason you're having trouble finding the right inner tie rod end for your F53 chassis is that many parts suppliers don't stock them as heavily as the more common left side parts. Ford designed the F53 chassis with this left/right thread system specifically for safety, and Workhorse continued this design when they took over chassis production. Your best bet for finding the correct right inner tie rod end is to check with Ford commercial truck dealerships, RV parts specialists like Camping World or PPL Motor Homes, or specialty chassis parts suppliers like Brazel's RV Performance or National RV Parts. Verify exact part numbers with Ford parts catalogs for your specific 1999 F53 chassis, as generic part number references may not be accurate for your specific year.
When examining tie rod ends that "look identical," the threading difference isn't always visually obvious until you try to install them. The threads will actually turn in opposite directions when you attempt installation, which is your immediate clue that you have the wrong part. Many RV owners have made this mistake and ended up with parts that simply won't thread on properly, or worse, parts that seem to go on but aren't actually engaging the threads correctly.
The F53 chassis uses opposite threading on the inner tie rod ends as an engineering safety feature that dates back to early automotive design principles. When your RV's wheels turn and encounter road forces, these forces create rotational stress on the tie rod assemblies. If both inner tie rod ends used the same threading direction, the natural tendency would be for one side to gradually loosen over time due to these operational forces and normal vibration.
By using left-hand threads on one side and right-hand threads on the other, Ford engineers ensured that normal operating forces would tend to tighten both connections rather than loosening them. This is the same principle used in bicycle pedals - the left pedal has left-hand threads so that pedaling motion keeps it tight rather than backing it out. Your F53 chassis experiences significant stress from the weight and wind resistance of your motorhome, making this safety feature even more critical.
The threading difference also serves another important function during alignment procedures. When a technician adjusts toe-in or toe-out by turning the tie rod adjuster sleeve, both inner tie rod ends move in or out simultaneously, maintaining the overall length of the tie rod assembly while changing the wheel alignment. This wouldn't be possible if both ends had the same threading direction.
Unfortunately, this safety feature creates supply chain challenges for parts availability. Many general automotive parts stores focus on passenger car applications where tie rod end interchangeability is more common. Commercial chassis applications like your F53 require more specialized sourcing, which is why you're finding plenty of left inner tie rod ends but struggling to locate the right side component.
For replacing tie rod ends on your 1999 Pace Arrow F53 chassis, you'll need several specific tools and parts. The most critical component is obviously the correct right inner tie rod end. Look for part numbers ES3449R, ES3449L, or equivalent aftermarket numbers from manufacturers like Moog (typically K80107 for right, K80106 for left), TRW, or Beck Arnley. Expect to pay between $45-80 per tie rod end depending on brand and supplier, with OEM Ford parts typically running on the higher end of that range.
Your tool requirements include a tie rod end separator or pickle fork tool, which is essential for safely separating the tie rod end from the steering knuckle without damaging the rubber boot or ball joint components. A proper tie rod end separator costs around $20-35 and is much safer than trying to hammer components apart. You'll also need a tie rod end removal tool or large adjustable wrench to remove the inner tie rod ends from the center link.
Additional tools include a torque wrench capable of handling 65-85 foot-pounds for proper installation torque specifications, penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench for dealing with rusted threads, and safety equipment including jack stands rated for your motorhome's front axle weight. Don't attempt this repair using only the RV's built-in hydraulic leveling jacks - you need proper mechanical support under the frame with rated jack stands.
Consider purchasing new cotter pins, castle nuts if they're corroded, and fresh grease for the new tie rod ends. Some technicians also recommend having wheel alignment specifications handy so you can mark the current positions before disassembly, though you'll definitely need a professional alignment after the repair anyway.
Before starting any work on your Pace Arrow's steering components, ensure the motorhome is parked on level ground with the wheels chocked and the parking brake set. Raise the front end using appropriate jack points - never attempt to work under a motorhome supported only by a jack. The F53 chassis has specific lifting points near the front axle that can safely support the weight. Once properly supported on jack stands, remove both front wheels to access the tie rod end connections.
Begin by carefully examining the current tie rod end configuration and marking the position of the adjusting sleeve with a permanent marker or scribe marks. CRITICAL: Mark the exact position of each tie rod end before removal to maintain approximate wheel alignment - failure to do this can result in dangerous steering pull when driving to alignment shop. This will help you maintain approximately the same toe setting during installation, though you'll still need professional alignment afterward. Spray all threaded connections with penetrating oil and allow it to work for at least 15 minutes before attempting removal.
Use the tie rod end separator to disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the spindles. These typically require removing a cotter pin and castle nut before the separator can be used effectively. Be patient with this process - forcing the separation can damage expensive steering knuckle components. Once the outer ends are free, you can access the inner tie rod end connections at the center link or steering gear.
The inner tie rod ends require careful attention to threading direction during removal. Turn the right inner tie rod end clockwise to remove it (remember, it has left-hand threads, so "lefty-loosey" applies in reverse). The left inner tie rod end removes counterclockwise in the normal fashion. If you encounter significant resistance, apply more penetrating oil and use a proper tie rod end tool rather than forcing it with an adjustable wrench, which can round off the hex surfaces.
Installation involves reversing this process while paying careful attention to thread engagement. The new inner tie rod ends should thread in smoothly by hand for the first several turns. If you feel resistance immediately, stop and verify you have the correct part with proper threading direction. Torque all connections to manufacturer specifications and have the alignment professionally checked.t part with the proper threading. Tighten the inner tie rod ends to Ford's exact specification for F53 chassis - consult your chassis manual for precise torque values as this is critical for safety. Reassemble the outer connections with new cotter pins, ensuring the castle nuts are properly torqued to 40-60 foot-pounds.
After completing installation, double-check all torque specifications and have the vehicle professionally aligned before driving. Test steering operation at low speeds in a safe area before normal operation. When testing the installation, lower the motorhome and check that the steering wheel is reasonably centered before driving to an alignment shop. The vehicle should be driveable for short distances to reach professional alignment services, but avoid highway speeds until proper alignment is verified.
While replacing tie rod ends on your F53 chassis is within the capability of experienced DIY mechanics, this repair involves critical safety systems that require careful attention to detail and proper torque specifications. If you're not comfortable working with steering components or lack the proper tools, this is definitely a job for a qualified RV service center or chassis specialist. The consequences of improper installation can be severe, potentially resulting in loss of steering control while driving.
Professional alignment is absolutely mandatory after tie rod end replacement, regardless of how carefully you marked positions during disassembly. The F53 chassis requires specific alignment procedures and equipment that aren't available to most home mechanics. Expect to pay $80-150 for proper four-wheel alignment at a shop equipped to handle motorhome chassis. Some RV service centers specialize in chassis work and may offer package deals for tie rod replacement and alignment.
Consider having both inner and outer tie rod ends inspected during this repair, even if you're only replacing the inner components currently. Tie rod ends typically wear at similar rates, and replacing them as a set often makes more sense than dealing with individual failures over time. The labor cost for accessing these components represents a significant portion of the repair expense, so addressing multiple components simultaneously can be more cost-effective.
Be aware that tie rod end replacement might reveal other steering system issues that weren't apparent before. Worn tie rod ends can mask problems with steering boxes, power steering pumps, or suspension components. If your steering doesn't feel significantly improved after the repair and alignment, additional diagnosis may be necessary to identify other worn components in the steering system.
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