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Ford E350 RV 20 Amp Charging Limit: DC-DC Charger Solution for LiFePO4

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Ford E350 RV stuck at 20 amp charging - normal or problem?

So I've got this older Ford E350 Class C and just made the jump to LiFePO4 batteries. Expected to see crazy high charging rates when I first tested it, but nope - stuck at exactly 20 amps whether I'm idling or revving to 2500 rpm.

I ended up installing a DC-DC charger anyway (heard too many horror stories about frying alternators), but I'm still curious - is there something from the factory that's limiting me to 20 amps? Like maybe Ford built in some kind of isolator or something to keep the original lead-acid batteries happy? Just seems weird that it's such a consistent number regardless of RPM.

Dear Mike R.,

Quick Answer

Your Ford E350 Class C likely has a factory-installed charge isolator or solenoid limiting current to 20 amps to protect the original lead-acid batteries. This is normal behavior and adding a DC-DC charger was the right solution for lithium batteries.

Tools & Parts Needed

multimeter wire strippers basic hand tools circuit tester

Find these on Amazon: Victron DC-DC Charger , Digital Multimeter , Clamp Meter

Quick Take

Yes, your Ford E350 chassis likely has a factory-installed current limiter or isolator that's restricting charging to about 20 amps. Most Class C RVs from the factory include either a battery isolator, charge controller, or inline fuse/breaker system designed to protect the alternator from the high current draw that house batteries can create. This 20-amp limitation you're seeing with both your old lead-acid batteries and new LiFePO4 setup suggests there's definitely a current-limiting component in your charging circuit that was installed from the factory - it's actually working exactly as designed to prevent alternator damage.

The good news is that your DC-to-DC charger installation was the right move, and you're now getting proper charging profiles for your lithium batteries. The 20-amp input limitation isn't necessarily a problem unless you need faster charging rates while driving.

Common Causes

Ford E350 chassis RVs typically come with one of several factory charging systems that would explain your 20-amp limitation. Common causes include a battery isolator or separator relay system that includes current limiting to protect the alternator. Many manufacturers install a 20-30 amp inline fuse or circuit breaker in the house battery charging circuit.

Another possibility is a factory-installed smart isolator that actively manages charging current. These devices were common on Class C RVs to prevent the house batteries from overwhelming the alternator, especially when the house battery bank was deeply discharged. Some systems use a simple resistor or current-limiting relay that caps the charging rate.

The consistent 20-amp rate regardless of engine RPM strongly suggests an active current limiter rather than just wire gauge limitations. If it were just undersized wiring, you'd typically see some variation with RPM changes and voltage fluctuations.

Preparation

SAFETY WARNING: Always disconnect both battery banks and allow the alternator to cool completely before working on charging circuits. Never work on electrical connections while the engine is running. Be aware of potential sparking when disconnecting live circuits and wear appropriate PPE including safety glasses and insulated gloves.

Before making any changes, you'll need to trace your charging circuit to identify the limiting component. Start by locating your house battery charging circuit where it connects to the chassis electrical system - this is typically near the engine compartment or under the driver's seat area in Class C RVs.

Gather a digital multimeter, wire tracer or continuity tester (note: only use continuity testers on de-energized circuits), and basic hand tools. You'll also want your RV's electrical schematic if available, though many older Class C units don't have detailed documentation. Take photos of all connections before disturbing anything.

Check your current DC-to-DC charger specifications to determine if you actually need more than 20 amps of input current. Many quality DC-to-DC chargers can efficiently charge lithium batteries even with a 20-amp input, so increasing the current may not provide significant benefits.

Repair Steps

SAFETY WARNING: Ensure all power sources are disconnected before removing or replacing any electrical components. Improper installation can cause fires or damage expensive equipment.

First, locate the house battery charging circuit by following the positive wire from your DC-to-DC charger input back toward the alternator or main electrical panel. Look for any inline components like fuses, breakers, isolators, or control modules. Common locations include the engine compartment firewall, under the driver's seat, or in a compartment behind the driver's area.

Once you find the limiting component, determine its type and rating. If it's a simple fuse or breaker rated at 20-25 amps, you must first verify your alternator capacity, wire gauge ratings, voltage drop calculations, and thermal limits before replacing with any higher-capacity component. Undersized wiring can overheat and cause fires when carrying increased current. Only after confirming the entire circuit can safely handle increased current should you consider replacement with the correct part for your model (verify with dealer). E350 alternators vary by model year and configuration - verify your specific alternator's amperage rating and safe continuous output with manufacturer specifications.

If you find a battery isolator or smart separator, research its specifications and replacement options. Some can be bypassed or replaced with higher-capacity units. However, be cautious about removing factory safety features - the 20-amp limitation may be protecting other components in your electrical system.

Before making changes, consider whether you actually need more charging current. Calculate your actual power needs while driving and determine if 20 amps provides adequate charging for your lithium bank size and typical usage patterns. For many RVers, 20 amps of alternator charging combined with solar and shore power is sufficient.

When to Get Help

Contact a qualified RV electrician if you're uncomfortable working with 12V charging systems or if you cannot locate the current-limiting component. The factory electrical systems in Class C RVs can be complex, and incorrectly modifying the charging circuit could damage your alternator, DC-to-DC charger, or lithium batteries.

Get professional help if you discover your limitation is built into a complex battery management system or integrated control module. Some Ford chassis have sophisticated electrical systems that require specialized knowledge to modify safely. Additionally, if your alternator is older or shows signs of wear, consult a professional before increasing charging loads.

Consider professional assistance if you want to install a higher-capacity DC-to-DC charger or add additional charging sources. A qualified technician can ensure your electrical system is properly sized and protected for increased charging rates, and can help you determine if the upgrade is worthwhile for your specific usage patterns. Remember that any modifications should be done according to manufacturer specifications and local electrical codes to ensure safe operation of your RV's electrical system.

This article is for informational purposes only and may contain errors. Always verify technical specifications and safety procedures with your equipment manufacturer's documentation or consult a qualified professional before performing repairs. See our terms.
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Tags: #alternator #lifepo4 #ford-e350 #dc-dc-charger #battery-isolator